At a high level- when most people are using either Dark or Black Wax over “light” colored Chalk Paint®….. like any of the “white’s” or Louis Blue, Antoinette, Country Grey and so on……- unless you want a heavy rustic look- always apply an application of clear wax first. (Apply the clear wax and remove most of the excess)
The clear wax creates a barrier on top of the Chalk Paint® from having the “stain or tint” of the Dark or Black Wax penetrating directly into the porous Chalk Paint® – which makes manipulating it difficult.
Then- you can immediately apply your Dark or Black Wax. Typically, you only apply one coat of either the Dark or Black Wax versus multiple layers- so having the clear wax base gives an extra layer of protection.
A wax finish is as foolproof as you can get. You can only make two mistakes when waxing … putting too much on and buffing too soon. The secret … thin coats and lots of clean, lint free rags.
With that said- if you have a dark colored Chalk Paint®- like Graphite, Amsterdam Green, Emperor’s Silk, Napoleonic Blue and so on…..some people SKIP the clear wax and go directly to Dark or Black Wax. This means the paint will absorb more of the stain and make the piece even a richer or darker color.
If you purchase from us… please make sure to read the instructions we include for your products carefully and experiment on a test piece – like a chair or little side table that you have OR even on the back of the piece you are working on – before taking on a big project without any prior experience. As our instructions suggest- you should make sure to off load some of the Dark or Black Wax from your wax brush before slathering it on your piece.
We like to remove excess wax using lint free Scott Shop Towels versus cheese cloth.
If you are looking to “buff” the Dark or Black Wax to create a sheen – it is suggested to wait 24 hours before doing so. Many of our customers will use steel wool 000 or 0000 ……or a buffing brush, and lightly rub teh wax but I recommend in a linear fashion versus circular. ALWAYS test this in an inconspicuous location before just going at the top of a dining room table that took you weeks to perfect the look of. The larger and flatter the surface- especially when using “dark” Chalk Paint® colors- the more finesse it may take to buff.
The link to the YouTube video below on The Purple Painted Lady channel shows Courtney and Trish applying dark and black wax in different ways to achieve different outcomes. If you do not want to hear the informational discussion and just skip right to the wax application – jump to the 15 minute marker on the video. Please take a moment to watch it and consider subscribing to our channel.
Here is the YouTube VIDEO link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S9Ke-dTWNOo&t=2867s
Lastly- if you have stain on your fingers or under your nails from the Dark or Black Wax – the Scrubby Soap we sell works wonderfully removing that. My favorite are Lemon, Orange OR Lime. Here is a link to that:http://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/Scrubby_bymfg_21-0-1.h…
OLD TIMER’S TRICK:
Here is an old timer’s trick too for when applying tinted waxes over previous wax: Only occasionally and ONLY over a wax layer … never directly on Chalk Paint® because it can leave some discoloration. Usually when I want to touch up or refresh an old waxed finish. These cabinet doors are a couple of years old and had been handled a lot. I just use a very very small amount of wax, rub it on with 0000 steel wool and light pressure, and buff. Again- Only occasionally do I use steel wool and ONLY over a wax layer … never directly on Chalk Paint® because it can leave some discoloration. Easy and fast. Leftover tricks from my old cabinet finishing days!
And do not doubt using wax! … but think about something we all own that we think is extremely durable but it has just a painted finish … your car. When you want to rejuvenate the finish or give it some protection or durability, do you put polyurethane on it or do you wax it!?