How Long Should You Wait To Paint Over Freshly Waxed Pieces?

You painted and waxed a piece and now you have changed your mind and want to paint another Chalk Paint® color on it.   How long should you wait before doing so? Can you do it the same day?

YES!!!  – you can use apply Chalk Paint® by Annie Sloan over Annie’s wax.  Yes- you can paint over wax the same day you applied the wax…BUT – the wax must feel dry to the touch and NOT tacky.  Annie also recommends doing only three applications of anything in one day.  So, if you painted two coats of paint and applied one coat of wax TODAY- then you must wait till tomorrow.

This situation happens to people and know that it is not a problem to paint using Chalk Paint® over previously painted and waxed pieces.  Annie created her products to work harmoniously together.  However- the most important thing is that the wax is dry and feels “cured.”

HOW THICK you applied your wax is a factor here.  I say that because I have felt pieces others have done and the surface actually feels really waxy to the touch.    

In general – after we remove the residual wax when applyig it – the surface of the furniture should feel a little cool and maybe the slightest bit moist….but it should allow you to slide the top of your hand across it like it is ice skating.  There should not be any drag.  If that is the case- you can paint over it with Chalk Paint®.  (but not other paint)

IF you do not have any drag when you glide your hand over the surface, YES- you can paint Chalk Paint® right over the wax!  

With that said- yes, in general…you should be able to paint over a waxed piece right away.  Could be even the same day.  Or- even that same hour!  Some painting techniques actually require that when building up layers.  

However, if you have applied layers of wax and want to paint right away….I would suggest to take some odorless mineral spirits (not the Environmentally Green that has a milky white appearance) on a rag and wipe the wax off.  Your rag should NOT be dripping wet.  I like to use the analogy of when using nail polish remover.  You know how you flip it over a couple of times on to a tissue or cotton ball….basically ….do the same thing with the odorless Mineral Spirits.  Now…..with the amount of pressure that you apply body lotion….wipe the lightly moistened rag across the surface from edge to edge.   The point is to remove a good portion of the wax.  You do not have to remove all of it and you do NOT need to aggressively scrub.  You are not trying to remove the paint! 

Once done- take a different rag moistened with fresh water (NOT dripping) – and wipe the whole surface again.  Basically- you are wiping any residual odorless Mineral Spirits off.

Once done doing this- take a step back and let the surface sit for a good 15 to 20 minutes to dry on its own.  Then, you can repaint. 

By using Mineral spirits and lots of rags- you can remove all the wax.  Like we said-  Dampen a rag with the spirits, wipe, replace the rag with a fresh one when it becomes clogged with wax, and keep wiping until the rag comes away clean.  Be sure to neutralize the solvent by washing with soap and warm water (or white vinegar and water) afterwards.

IF YOU HAVE APPLIED TOO MUCH WAX AND JUST WANT TO REMOVE SOME OF IT……    use Odorless MINERAL SPIRITS:  

A quick suggestion if wanting to paint over a waxed surface and you are concerned about the amount of wax.  Take some mineral spirits on a rag and wipe the wax off.  You should always be able to slide the TOP of your hand across your piece after applying and removing the wax.  Use the top of your hand though since it should be clean of wax- versus the palm of your hand or your finger tips – which may have some wax on it from applying it.

IF you applied too much wax – use a little odorless mineral spirits on a rag.  I mean a little- it should be slightly damp- NOT dripping wet.  Be careful because you do not want this on your dripping on your brand new wood floor too!  So- place a drop cloth down if necessary.

Using your rag that is moist with Mineral Spirits- wipe your cabinets in the same direction you painted them from edge to edge.  Move across the cabinet and do not aggressively focus on one spot.  THE POINT here is to lift some of the wax- NOT all of it.

If you do take too much off- you can practice applying Clear Wax properly and add an additional fresh coat.  LOL!

I know this can difficult if you are not a patient person, like me. But you want the base to be solid so the soft wax needs curing time to become hard. (And if you apply your wax super thick- where your pieces feel waxy or your hand cannot “glide” across the surface once you are done applying and removing the wax- the the cure time will take longer.)

****If you follow the waxing instructions that The Purple Painted Lady includes with all sales of wax – the wax will be dry and smooth immediately after removal. 

IF YOU ARE INPATIENT AND WANT TO PAINT OVER IT ASAP and the wax is fresh or tacky, then…:

You will want to use a little mineral spirits on a rag. Your rag should be slightly damp- NOT dripping wet. Be careful if doing this inside your home because you do not want odorless Mineral Spirits dripping on your brand new wood floor. (well, you might not have a brand new floor, but you understand what I mean, right?)

So- place a drop cloth down if necessary. Using your rag that is moist with odorless mineral spirits- wipe your piece in the same direction you painted it from edge to edge. Move across the cabinet, dresser, etc and do not aggressively focus on one spot. This process will take about 5 or 10 minutes to do your whole piece. You will need to have a few rags for this. The result you will be left with …..is that your Chalk Paint® will feel like it did prior to waxing. Sort of a flat, matte surface. Use your hand and glide it over the surface. By the feel of it- you should have a good idea- if you removed it all or at least most of it (which is ok too!)

Once done with removing the wax …….¸¸.•*¨¨*• …go ahead and paint with EITHER Chalk Paint® or any other paint product you choose.

DON’T TOUCH UP PAINT AFTER YOU HAVE APPLIED WAX:

Remember also- if you realize you missed a spot while painting after you have finished waxing, if you attempt to “spot fix” this missing paint  – in certain light you will see the “correction.” I once did this on top of a dresser.  I painted it in Coco and then waxed…like I always do. But then- I saw a spot that needed a “touch up” of paint.  So, I did the little touch up after I had finished waxing.  The little “touch up’s” I did were so visible- I had to repaint the whole top.

 

I use the analogy- that a touch up looks like to me- taking photographs and multiple panes of window glass.  Imagine a coffee table that has 5 panes of glass on top of it.  And you place one photo in each pane in a different area.  Then- once done you look down at the glass table top.  You know how – visually your eye will pick up on the different depths of those photos?  Doing a touch up after waxing, and then re-waxing creates that SAME EFFECT!
Painting Over Chalk Paint and Wax

A friend of mine named Peggy Elwood asked another question related to fresh wax – “How long do you wait after waxing before selling a piece?”

My response was that on custom jobs I do- I will often wait a couple days before delivering it and furniture is always accompanied with a “Care Tag” explaining the cure time and how to take care of the painted piece going forward. No more Pledge or Endust allowed in the house! LOL! Customers can use their painted piece – but need to be more careful during that first month. I recommend that anything that has substantial weight to it- as in more than 5 pounds, should wait till after the “rule of thumb” 30 day cure time is over. (I personally find in upstate NY that my wax is quite hard sooner than that.) Also, lamps that have metal pointed feet as a base, can possibly leave an indention in the wax- so just be cautious. This can really depend on where in the country you live and the temperatures you are experiencing. A dry climate will allow the wax to cure faster- where a wet climate will cause the paint to take longer to dry and the wax longer to cure.

I have other helpful information located on my Facebook page HERE in case you would like to check them out. Please feel free to “PIN” my photo to your Chalk Paint® Pinterest board.

If you are interested in staying touch with The Purple Painted Lady- visit our Facebook page HERE – we would LOVE to hear from you and see your before & after photos!

BUY PRODUCT FROM THE PURPLE PAINTED LADY™:

As for buying any of the products we mentioned earlier in this post- I hope that you select The Purple Painted Lady™ to be your one stop resource!  We have four locations in western NY.  Check out our Information tab and come and meet us!  Otherwise- if you are not located near me- the following information may apply to you.  This information is directed to those who do NOT have a local stockist.  Because if you do – go and meet them, shop from them and build a relationship with them.  The guidance, information and knowledge they share with you – will be invaluable.  But, if you are in a location where there is no one selling paint products- and you must buy on-line- consider us.  With that said, visit www.anniesloan.com to find a stockist near you.
 
We are here to help you, our customers!  We want you to be successful!  And, just so you know, when you place an order with The Purple Painted Lady:
 
SOME OF THE REASONS OUR CUSTOMER SERVICE IS THE BEST:
 
*  We sell Chalk Paint® for $34.95
*  If you order before 3 pm EASTERN TIME any day Monday thru Friday – we will ship out your package that SAME day.
*  We ship orders out every since week day all over the US.
*  We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same.
*  We have awesome follow up customer service, too!
 
 
And- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you.  (my shameless but honest plug)    Here is a link to our on-line shop=>   http://shop.thepurplepaintedlady.com/
: )  And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project!  And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!Lastly- if I was helpful to you- ….please consider leaving a positive review on my Facebook business page sharing your positive experience or thoughts about The Purple Painted Lady.  Here is a link to my Facebook page=>  http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Purple-Painted-Lady/291882785710    This really helps me!  (wink, wink!)
XO
Trish

The Purple Painted Lady™ ~ the serial no. is 86/641,416 with the US Trademark Office

VISIT our locations too!

our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502

77 Main street with phone number

OR

STARTING JULY, 2015 ~ 650 South Ave. in Rochester, NY 14620

The Purple Painted Lady South Wedge Stye Chalk Paint Judy Bret 2015

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The Purple Painted Lady west genesee Baldwinsville Chalk Paint FRONT Savvy Chick

 

Chalk Paint® Has So Much Functionality!

I always enjoy hosting our Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan BASICS Workshops. First, I get to meet people who are creative, fun and obviously, enjoy their lives. But also because I always learn something new myself.

In a recent BASICS Workshop, as always- everyone creates their own sample boards to take home. While making them and completing the class steps, I encourage each student to have fun and try something new, perhaps from something different from what the person sitting next to them is doing. We are always impressed with how amazing the pieces come out and also – how different they can look by just doing one small thing different.

In class we create a sample board using two different colors, layering them and using a dry brush technique. Then we apply a dark wax glaze and some French Gilding Wax.

Typically we apply the dark wax glaze as the second to last step. We brush it on and then normally, wipe it off so the board is dry. And our last step is to apply the French Gilding Wax, which is that coppery metallic color on the sample board below.

Duck Egg over Primer Red

At our last BASICS Workshop, one of our fabulous students named Lauren- decided to approach this project slightly differently. She wanted to leave more of her Dark Wax Glaze on, instead of wiping it off. While the glaze was still moist, she continued to move to the next step of adding the French Gilding Wax. Again, the Mineral Spirits in the Dark Wax Glaze was still moist, so when she applied the French Gilding Wax- it caused it to be thinned out and basically, was like becoming a Gilding Glaze. Lauren also chose to apply her Duck Egg Blue paint minimally and blended it more into the Primer Red Chalk Paint® I think her piece looked fantastic!

Lauren BASICS Gilding Wax Glaze

Lauren’s look was more translucent and very funky! Oh, by the way, Lauren is the happy one in the background of the photo. (I think you can get the gist that we like to have fun in our workshops!)

Well, what I hope you take away from this post is:

1. Try using your Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan products in different ways! Explore making a wash, mixing paint into some Clear Wax, change the timing of when you traditionally apply or remove product. Don’t be afraid to play!

2. Workshops are a great way to expand your product knowledge. They are fun and you will get to meet some other fantastic and creative people!

3. You will always learn more from a hands-on workshops taught by a stockist compared to a video.

Thanks to everyone who came out for this workshop and I hope to get the opportunity to meet you at one!

Avoid a Blotchy Appearance in Your Chalk Paint® & Wax

A blotchy appearance can come from either a poor painting job, waxing in sections and not blending the areas in the final phase, or sometimes – over wiping wax off and causing some areas to seem buffed and other areas not.

I received an email from a customer who painted the piece shown in the photo below and that is how this post began.

I feel that her project looks good, but she was disappointed in that she felt it looked blotchy. So, here are some tips and suggestions that if applied – will benefit everyone when approaching your project to avoid getting a blotchy look.

Let’s focus just on the raised panel sections shown here.   Blotchy Appearance cabinetWhen we begin painting a piece – often we will do short segmented brush strokes, but after you have painted a section – make sure to lay your paint or do a finish brushstroke from one edge all the way to the other.  (meaning from the top blue arrow all the way to the bottom blue arrow) This will create a fluid solid pass of paint and lay the paint in one smooth plane.  Some people may paint in small sections, especially on the sides of tall piece, so this is very important or you run the risk of seeing those broken brush strokes. To watch a video of me painting- demonstrating what I mean by “Laying The Paint” click HERE.

This same tip applies to when waxing.  Apply your clear wax as I instruct in the paperwork I include in your shipments or as shown on my website’s video HERE.  But then also- remember in the final phase of removing the excess wax –  always start at the top of the panel and wipe to the bottom, as so to blend the wax from the top blue arrow to the bottom.  Again, if you watch my video on how to apply wax- you will notice that the last couple times I wipe the drawer I am doing the demo on, instead of wiping in a circular motion- I wipe the wax in a straight line from one edge to the other of the drawer. I hope this make sense.

This tip is especially important when working with darker colored Chalk Paint®.

Just like black cars show off dings, dents or scratches more versus a white car- when working with Graphite, Napoleonic Blue or Emperor’s Silk, make sure to wipe off wax and buff in an even smooth and fluid approach- incorporating a section from one edge all the way to the other edge- if wanting more of a clean finish. The Buffing Brush that I sell at my shop and on-line – is very helpful with darker colors.  Click on the photo below if interested in purchasing an Ultimate Buffing Brush or to read more about why they are super helpful in general, but especially when working with darker Chalk Paint® colors.

Buffing Brushes

Besides the above- what also causes a blotchy appearance is when you are applying your first coat of soft wax. It is important to apply clear wax in thin and uniformed coats. When I say thin- I mean – not sparse- but rather a reasonable amount as so you are not wasting the wax since you then, after applying it- wipe the excess off. Something important that happens during your application of wax- is that the wax intensifies the paint as it is absorbed. You will literally see a deepening in the color of the Chalk Paint®. (the darker the color of paint, the easier it is to see) As you apply the wax- make sure the intensity is uniformed and happens to 100% of your painted area. Not just in some spots. You cannot always easily “correct” this after the wax has dried if you do have sections that the paint is lighter. Please apply the wax and as shown in my video- by gently pushing the wax into the paint. (please make sure to watch my video since reading instructions is very different then seeing someone actually do it.)

Please click here to watch my video!

We have two different size Wax BUFFING Brushes at our shop that are used to create a uniformed sheen on your painted pieces after you have applied wax and removed the residual and the wax has dried. Buffing brushes are not for applying wax!

So, after you have applied your wax and removed the residual and the wax has dried so it is no longer tacky….the final part of your project may be to buff the surface to achieve your desired sheen. The more you buff- the higher the sheen. Also- experiment with buffing strokes. During the final buffing phase- buff from one side, all the way to the opposite side (end to end.)

Wax Buffing Brushes are perfect for that! And the result is much more uniform than using a rag with your hand – which sometimes shows where your fingertips were applying the most pressure. (this can happen more commonly when using dark Chalk Paint® colors)

The Wax BUFFING Brushes are great for flat surfaces, chair and table legs. They are made of a soft, high-quality natural bristle that will not scratch finished surfaces. The brush is a comfortable size to hold, and being that it is an oval shape- it fits nicely and comfortably in the palm of your hand without straining your muscles in your thumb. There is also a strap across the top to slide your hand under.

We have buffing brushes in two sizes:

1. At $25.95 we have the 6.75 inches long X 2.75 inches wide in the center. The height when sitting flat is about 1.75 inches. Click HERE to purchase.

2. At $30.95 we have the 8.5 inches long X 2.75 inches wide in the center. The height when sitting flat is about 1.75 inches. Click HERE to purchase.
Buffing BrushesHeight of buffing brush

And remember- just because you use a Buffing Brush does NOT mean you have to have super shiny pieces! You control the shine by how long you buff the piece. However, if you want a super shiny piece…after initially buffing with your brush. Take a nylon pantyhose- slide your buffing brush in to the foot of it – and buff again. The nylon causes a little more friction- and makes the final finish even shinier.

Everyone who uses this buffing brush during our workshops- always leaves with one.

I received a question via Facebook from a customer who experienced streaking – I thought I would share my responses to her here – in hopes it may help some of you also:

Streaks in Wax page 1

Streaks in Wax Page 2

Streaks in wax page 3

Chalk Paint® Transfers onto my Brush or Rag when Waxing

When you are applying Annie’s clear wax – having some Chalk Paint® transfer onto your Ultimate Wax Brush or rag is totally normal!

chalky paint transfer

Chalk Paint® has a powder or “chalky” feeling to it at first. This “powdery” feeling goes away as the Chalk Paint® cures however. But that is why when you wax your piece of furniture or cabinets, some Chalk Paint® transfers onto your Ultimate Wax Brush or rag.

I always recommend to clients when applying clear wax- to have paper plates and plastic spoons on hand. Take wax out of the tin and place it on a paper plate to pull from with your Ultimate Wax Brush or rag.

I would not want to get any of the Florence Chalk Paint® on this brush back into my tin of clear wax and then have to complete a Pure White Chalk Paint® piece.

If wanting to learn more about applying clear wax- please read the post and watch the quick video I made to help you by clicking HERE.

A little Bourbon anyone?

A little Bourbon anyone?

My current project that I am working on…… and I love it. I hope someone out there will too and hopefully purchase it!

This dresser is painted in Graphite and Pure White Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan.

I am very excited about it- and I had to share it. Once I was done with the detailing – I planned on making it look a bit worn by sanding the surface strategically with some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper.

Here is a helpful tip for when you paint a dresser front…once you have the lay out done, feel free to remove the drawer and set it to make the painting easier!

Also, don’t panic if when using Chalk Paint™ and prior to waxing you get a light scuff mark, like what I am pointing at in the photo below. When you apply Annie’s Clear Wax that all disappears. But note, I am not referring to scratches or gouges.

Always have a copy of the image you are painting near by to reference. In the photo below you can see how I like to tape mine using Painter’s Tape to the piece so I can easily reference it at all times. I learned this when I primarily only painted murals. I would tape 4 copies of what I was painting above, below and on both sides of the area I was painting on the wall. This does really help a lot!


For the knobs I am thinking will by a glossy black of some sort. (I think)

Now after painting the detailing on, my next step is to lightly sand the surface to even out the paint. There are pros & cons to sanding or distressing BEFORE applying your first coat of Clear Wax. I typically sand BEFORE and will explain why in this post later today below.

Something I wanted to share now though, is that when you sand prior to waxing over a dark Chalk Paint™ color like Graphite (as I have in my photo below)…you will get this residual white chalky look. Don’t panic!

What I do to remove this “chalky effect” is GENTLY blow and wipe with a DRY towel as much of it off. (don’t use a moist towel since that powder are tiny particles of chalk paint and the water will reactivate it into a “wash.”) Do not be concern with removing it so it is all gone! First, you will not be able to. Secondly, it is not necessary because as soon as I apply the clear wax…all of that disappears. The photo below shows what the front looks like after applying clear wax to the top drawer. Notice, that white chalky residue or scratch look goes away on it!

When painting or waxing – place your piece up on blocks so that it easy to get right to the bottom of the feet without dirtying your floor.

Once done applying the wax (and please reference my video here if you need wax application instructions.) But after I applied the wax and removed the residual wax per my instructions, I gently buffed out the surface. The photo below is after I am done with all of this.

I ended up painting the inside of the drawers with Napoleonic Blue and waxed them. The only thing left is to add some black enamel knobs. I couldn’t wait to get it into the window though, so here it is….ready for sale! I hope you like it. It comes with my girlfriend Jeanne’s Bourbon Slushie recipe! Perfect for the holidays.

I will post a final photo when finish! (and don’t worry…I have something in the works that I will reveal soon to show you exactly how I do this!!!!!) Something that will be available to you via my on-line store.