freshstyle® Magazine- Annie Sloan is a new Contributing Editor!

fresh style® is a new, bi-monthly magazine that celebrates creative living—exploring possibilities and looking past the surface to discover the hidden potential in everyday surroundings.
The Purple Painted Lady Annie Sloan Fresh Style Magazine

In each issue, you’ll find quick and easy projects, tips from design experts, spotlights on creative bloggers and Etsy artists, and tons of ideas on how to recycle, repurpose, and fill your space with personalized décor.
Fresh Style 2014 Cover The Purple Painted Lady

The Purple Painted Lady has them available via our on-line store for $7.99. OR ..get your fresh style mag for FREE by ordering 4 quarts of Chalk Paint® via our “Quattro Kit!” (Click HERE for the hyperlink to the shopping cart to order your Quattro Kit)

Please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. We have it available for $34.95 per quart, we offer low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day (as long as Pete, our UPS guy has not come already!)

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location as of July 1, 2014 at 1 West Genesee Street, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Click HERE for Store hours and information.
Moving from Solvay to Baldwinsville ASU  The Purple Painted Lady

Memorial Day 2014 (Shop Schedule)

Happy Memorial Day Everyone.

For many- it is a day off. For me personally- I work 6 days a week- every week- but Sundays and Holidays are sacred to me. If I was to be brutally honest though- I guess what helps me to actually sit back and relax- is that neither UPS or Federal Express work those days. Striking a balance in life- is something I struggle with- always have.

This weekend I reflect on all of those men and women who made the greatest sacrifice of all- their lives. There have been various “Memorial Day’s” established throughout the last couple hundred years, but on May 26, 1966, President Johnson signed a presidential proclamation naming Waterloo, New York, as the birthplace of Memorial Day.

I live about an hour away- and I think we may go and visit the festivities happening there. On Memorial Day- I plan to visit my father’s grave and place flowers and a flag there for him. He served in the Korean War on a ship called the USS Perry.

The Purple Painted Lady will be CLOSED in Macedon and Syracuse on Sunday, May 25th and Monday, May 26th. UPS and FedX are off also, so all on-line orders will ship out on Tuesday, May 27th.

And speaking of orders and ….paint- I love how patriotic the colors of Emperor’s Silk, Pure White and Napoleonic Blue Chalk Paint® look! Many people often ask about the plastic paint storage bottles that I show the paint in. They contain a whole quart and have an easy dispenser on the top. If interested in purchasing one- visit HERE.

Happy Memorial Day Chalk Paint The purple painted lady

I hope that you and your family take time to sit back, reflect and relax.

Please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. $34.95 per quart, low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day!

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Sanding Chalk Paint® Before OR After Waxing?

The question to sand and distress Chalk Paint® before versus after applying clear wax is a very common question. I asked it too, when I first started using Annie Sloan products. So, I hope this small post about this cute dresser helps you.

I love the combination of Versailles, Antoinette and Old White Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan.

Versailles Sample Board

Antoinette Sample Board

Old White Sample Board

I decided to use them all on a vintage dresser we are painting. Although I did mix a little Old White & Pure White into the Antoinette to soften the pink even more.

Versailles Antoinette dresser The Purple Painted Lady close up

Once the was all dry, I grabbed a “Medium to fine” sanding block because I wanted to soften the look of paint and give the piece a weathered/worn look.

The question many ask- is should I distress a piece before or after applying clear wax?

Personally, I like to sand Chalk Paint® before waxing. The reason I prefer that, is to me- it is less effort. I typically will sand using 200 or 220 grit sandpaper or sand sponge. I never use a power sander. I like to “feel” the piece and it does not take much effort (muscle power) at all to do this step. I like how the Chalk Paint® is polished and the end result, is a silky smooth surface.

Another reason I prefer to sand before applying clear wax, is that often- for pieces I am keeping in my one home, I usually only apply one coat of wax (two on the top though.) So, because I only apply one coat of wax over the sides of the dresser and drawers- I do not want to sand that one coat off- which will mean I need to apply another coat of wax.

For pieces that we sell at my shop though, I always do a minimum of 2 coats of wax since I do not know how the piece will be treated once it is sold. (I sometimes say there are people who use furniture, and then there are people who abuse furniture.)

Now- if you sand before applying a coat of wax- keep in mind- it will create more dust.

See how much is on my shop floor?

Versailles Antoinette dresser The Purple Painted Lady with dust

So, because of this I strongly recommend that you use a drop cloth at home because if you try to mop up that PAINT DUST, guess what you will create? …Yep, you guessed it, a beautiful wash all over your floor. So, don’t do that!

Again, since I sometimes like to apply one coat of wax- so I do not like to distress once it is on.

Now with that all shared, I will still sometimes take some triple zero steel wool and rub that over a finished piece that has been waxed. This changes the sheen of the waxed surface to more of a high sheen and it will feel smooth as glass.

I also like to use a sand block or sand paper to remove paint that accidentally gets onto a spot that it should not be. For example, on the top of a drawer or side of a drawer.

The Purple Painted Lady Versailles Antoinette sanding block drawer BEFOREThe Purple Painted Lady Versailles Antoinette sanding block drawer AFTER 2

The Purple Painted Lady sells Chalk Paint® on-line and we always ship same day! In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & MMS Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

PicMonkey Collage The Purple Painted Lady Sandinf Block sponge drawer clean chalk paint

FREE Wax Clinics at The Purple Painted Lady in Macedon

Hi all!

I know how much you love using the paint that we sell- but I often hear that waxing is not the easiest thing to do for you.

How much do you apply?
How should you apply it?
When do you wipe it off?
How much do you remove?
And….what about Dark Wax?

Well, we will be offering TWO FREE Clinics on How TO USE SOFT WAX on Thursday, August 15th. One event is from noon till 1pm (may go longer) and the other is later that night from 6 to 7pm. The clinics are FREE, but please register through our Facebook Event page HERE.

You must be registered to attend since it will help us plan and accommodate for all who would like to attend!

Hope to see you there!
wax brush chalk paint transfer

Please arrive on time as a courtesy to all others since we will be building on the information we share as we progress through the hour and will not be able to catch you up if late.

Clinic to be held at The Purple Painted Lady ~ located at 77 West Main Street, Macedon, New York 14502

Plenty of parking around back of building.

A little Bourbon anyone?

A little Bourbon anyone?

My current project that I am working on…… and I love it. I hope someone out there will too and hopefully purchase it!

This dresser is painted in Graphite and Pure White Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan.

I am very excited about it- and I had to share it. Once I was done with the detailing – I planned on making it look a bit worn by sanding the surface strategically with some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper.

Here is a helpful tip for when you paint a dresser front…once you have the lay out done, feel free to remove the drawer and set it to make the painting easier!

Also, don’t panic if when using Chalk Paint™ and prior to waxing you get a light scuff mark, like what I am pointing at in the photo below. When you apply Annie’s Clear Wax that all disappears. But note, I am not referring to scratches or gouges.

Always have a copy of the image you are painting near by to reference. In the photo below you can see how I like to tape mine using Painter’s Tape to the piece so I can easily reference it at all times. I learned this when I primarily only painted murals. I would tape 4 copies of what I was painting above, below and on both sides of the area I was painting on the wall. This does really help a lot!

For the knobs I am thinking will by a glossy black of some sort. (I think)

Now after painting the detailing on, my next step is to lightly sand the surface to even out the paint. There are pros & cons to sanding or distressing BEFORE applying your first coat of Clear Wax. I typically sand BEFORE and will explain why in this post later today below.

Something I wanted to share now though, is that when you sand prior to waxing over a dark Chalk Paint™ color like Graphite (as I have in my photo below)…you will get this residual white chalky look. Don’t panic!

What I do to remove this “chalky effect” is GENTLY blow and wipe with a DRY towel as much of it off. (don’t use a moist towel since that powder are tiny particles of chalk paint and the water will reactivate it into a “wash.”) Do not be concern with removing it so it is all gone! First, you will not be able to. Secondly, it is not necessary because as soon as I apply the clear wax…all of that disappears. The photo below shows what the front looks like after applying clear wax to the top drawer. Notice, that white chalky residue or scratch look goes away on it!

When painting or waxing – place your piece up on blocks so that it easy to get right to the bottom of the feet without dirtying your floor.

Once done applying the wax (and please reference my video here if you need wax application instructions.) But after I applied the wax and removed the residual wax per my instructions, I gently buffed out the surface. The photo below is after I am done with all of this.

I ended up painting the inside of the drawers with Napoleonic Blue and waxed them. The only thing left is to add some black enamel knobs. I couldn’t wait to get it into the window though, so here it is….ready for sale! I hope you like it. It comes with my girlfriend Jeanne’s Bourbon Slushie recipe! Perfect for the holidays.

I will post a final photo when finish! (and don’t worry…I have something in the works that I will reveal soon to show you exactly how I do this!!!!!) Something that will be available to you via my on-line store.

Questions Often Asked About Chalk Paint™

Chalk Paint™ Questions and hopefully……Answers

What is Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan?

Chalk Paint™ is an incredible product specifically designed for furniture, and it can be used on walls and in painting leather couches, vinyl chairs, outside of tubs, refrigerators, and exterior surfaces such as doors and shudders (like on The Purple Painted Lady’s Palmyra store.). It is a water soluble paint (meaning a major component of Chalk Paint™) is water. So, when you think of a product being GREEN…think Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan!

Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan is also highly pigmented material that is made with little or no black. This is excellent when mixing colors since the end result will be true to hue and not muddy. Annie created it to produce an old-world, European look- but Chalk Paint™ has so much more versatility!

I don’t want my piece to be primitive or distressed- so I guess Chalk Paint™ is not for me.

Oh my- that is far from the truth! Chalk Paint™ is not a one dimensional paint! You can create many types of finishes and the paint has an incredible about of functionality within one quart. Want to create a textured surface? No problem. Want to create a super smooth surface? No problem. Want to sand your piece and get that shabby – French Country feel? No problem. But oh- you want to create a piece that will look perfectly cohesive in your modern home? NO PROBLEM! Chalk Paint™ is perfect also when you want to add depth and character versus just a plastic feeling, one dimensional surface. And it can be used to accommodate any design decor ranging from Mid-Century Modern, Contemporary to french Country, to Primitive. Your color choices and preference of how you “finish” your piece will influence what design style it will be.

Annie Sloan – being a fine artist herself, created her Chalk Paint™ based on her knowledge of paint, pigments and art history. Annie created Chalk Paint™ over 20 years ago, and in the last two decades, her Chalk Paint™ has been pushed and tested beyond probably what either you or I could imagine! So, when it comes to feeling secure in your decision to use Chalk Paint™ – know that you are not a beta test!

As for when it became available here in the US, although the paint was created over 20 years ago- it was around 2010 when Lisa Rickert – who is the proprietress of Annie Sloan Unfolded imported to use on her home in New Orleans.

What are the qualities that make Chalk Paint™ superior?

With Chalk Paint™ there is:

No Stripping

No Sanding

No Priming

and I often add……No kidding!

When you paint with latex paint – you must strip, sand and always prime! That requires a significant amount of your time and money when it comes to buying the materials to do this. Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan allows you to create a beautiful finished piece without doing all the extra work of stripping, sanding, and priming prior to painting and without sacrificing the quality. In fact- you are using a product that rivals any high end finish- and in fact- will be superior to it! The colors are beautiful, and are inspired from 18th Century European furniture. Chalk Paint™ is water soluble and has extremely low VOC’s. Due to this – it is considered a “kind” paint by Annie and virtually has no odor to it. One of The Purple Painted Lady’s Retail Partners, Blue Sky Design in Buffalo, NY only sells green building materials. And Blue Sky Design has chosen to include Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan to their suite of products! It is safe for you and the environment. <br

Ok- it states above “No Stripping, No Sanding or Priming” but you don’t believe it!
If you read this page from the beginning you realize- that I already stated this! But whenever I am doing a Home Show or festival- I will repeat this mantra over and over again. Only to have someone then immediately ask after listening, “so do I have to sand?” I know that this concept is difficult to believe- but the proof is in the pudding. So, YES!!!! Chalk Paint™ was designed to be very easy to use and it adheres to almost any surface including wood, concrete, walls, leather coaches, vinyl, washer & dryers, porcelain bathtubs …so just about anything! It can be used both outside and in. (But remember when using it for outdoor applications do NOT use wax.

Also, something amazing about Chalk Paint™- is that it provides 50% more coverage in regards to square feet of painting compared to latex.

Wax Top Coat? Why would I use wax versus polyurethane?

Chalk Paint™ is very porous and the wax will penetrate the paint and literally fuse with it making it very strong. Waxing the paint provides protection. Chalk Paint™ in nature- is a very flat chalky finish and over time could be effected by oils from your skin, stains from beverages, dirty fingertips. They can permanently stain the paint. The wax finish is what seals and protects your piece. This is a bit of a crude analogy, but if you have ever replaced the commode (toilet) in your bathroom, before placing the new commode down on the top of the sewer pipe, a thick wax ring is placed. And then, the commode goes on top of that and pressure is applied to “squish” the wax and seal it. Wax is used in many applications to protect materials. A perfect example of this is when we wax our cars.

Why should I use Annie Sloan waxes?

First off, Annie Sloan developed her waxes specifically for her Chalk Paint™ line. The wax is very smooth, like soft margarine or if you are in the south- Crisco! It is easy to use and contains very little odor. It does not contain harsh chemical solvents like quick drying agents so you are not breathing harsh chemicals into your lungs. Also, we have actually heard of other brands of waxes that have removed the paint right off the piece and can stain the paint. Annie Sloan waxes are guaranteed to work with her Chalk Paint™. And guess what- if later in life- you want to change the color of your piece- Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan goes directly over Annie Sloan Wax without sanding or priming!

I have never used wax before, how do I use it?
  Keep reading this post but also watch my video by clicking HERE!

If you are new to waxes, it does take a little bit of getting used to, but it really is easy. The most common mistake people make is to use too much. ? If all you take away from what I say and do is this…you will be ok! SO….take note …we are not icing a cake! We are waxing furniture. So, very thin – uniform coats are best. If that is all that you remember from this hand out- you should be ok! Just like when you put moisturizer on your skin- you do not put a thick coat on, but rather a THIN coat and rub it in- so that it will be absorbed into your skin. OR when you use hair conditioner…you apply it and the do what? Rinse it off. That is because your hair will absorb what it needs. Annie’s Chalk Paint will do the same thing in regards to the wax!
CLEAR WAX- this is how I use it:
1. I take a plastic spoon and a paper plate. Using the backside of the spoon- I take a good tablespoon amount of wax out of the tin and put it on the paper plate. (Place the cover back on the tin of wax until you need more)

2. I use my wax brush and pull some of the wax from the glob (for lack of better words.) Only the tips of your wax brush should have wax on them- and not a lot!!!! A little goes a long way! Again- you are not icing a cake where you want a generous amount of thickness. We are applying the wax very thin- pressing uniformly with steady pressure- but not so much that you are bending the bristles on the wax brush. I like to use the analogy that this is similar to waxing your car…you apply the wax- BUT NOT SO MUCH that when it is time to wipe it off or buff- you need a power tool to do it! So- apply a thin layer of wax and GET IT IN THE GROOVES OF THE PAINT.

3. DIRECTION TO APPLY WAX For most pieces (except when going for that Rustic look or when you have a textured piece) I usually apply the wax in the same direction as my painted brush strokes. Or- if I use a circular motion- I still ALWAYS finish with a few clean straight finishing strokes in the direction I painted. If I was doing a dresser top- I would start at the back reaching across while standing in front of the piece and as I apply the Annie Sloan wax – I work my way toward the front as so I don’t lean into a previously waxed area. You will see where you waxed prior because it does deepen the hue of the paint a slight amount but be aware of where you just waxed, and overlap slightly as you begin your next section.

4. After a few strokes from one side to the other with the wax brush- I will notice when the wax is not covering as much- that is my queue I need more wax. But first….using a lint free cotton t-shirt (an old one from my husband or an old sheet) and I wipe off the residual wax with one or two strokes in the same direction as I just waxed. (I am not buffing the wax at this stage! Merely just removing or incorporating any small wax “crumbs” that may be present.) Again- just one or two uniformed swipes across the whole area in one sweep – and that is it.

5. Resume waxing the next area- I wax strategically – meaning in an organized direction so I do not miss a spot.

6. The wax will dry (meaning no longer be tacky to the touch within a short time….maybe an hour or two?) However a variable in the dry time is the temperature and humidity where you are located. Is it is humid and cooler- cure time will be longer. If it is taking a long time and your wax is still tacky and you are not in the rain forest- reread my warnings above regarding applying the wax thin!

Depending on the piece I am finishing- I may have different amounts of wax coats. For instance…..a dresser. I may have 2 – 3 coats of wax on the top, but only 1 coat of wax on the sides and front. 7. Once the piece is no longer tacky- if you want to have a shinier finish- buff your piece. If you like it as is- then you are done! It does not take much rubbing and the piece will be quite shiny- so pay attention and have good lighting so that you do not over do it.
8. Remember NO WAX when painting pieces for outside.
9. Surfaces that will get serious use (wear and tear) like tops of dressers and tables – should receive 2 to 3 coats of wax. Follow the procedure above – always allow wax to dry between additional coats.
I will always lead my customers on a path to get the best value from their purchase. If a person walks in and is describing an application where another product would be better- I let them know! Now when it comes to tools- in the sense of brushes – I strongly believe that wax brush is a necessary purchase if you plan on doing multiple pieces. I understand that they are not inexpensive, but if you maintain them- they will last forever and will make your waxing process much faster and from a cosmetic perspective- will significantly improve your application! I always say- this is similar to applying make up. I honestly don’t think the applicator you choose for putting on eye shadow is a big deal- but try putting blush on with a skinny brush versus a nice big soft brush and you are going to look ridiculous. Invest in a wax brush and get a professional quality finish. You will not regret it.

The wax is important to protect the paint – like polyurethane does when using Latex. Also – in regards to water protection, especially in kitchens and bathrooms. In that case- you need something made from wax and or oil….ie.oil and water don’t mix. (and not to be too odd here- that is why when you install a new toilet- they set the piece on a very THICK wax ring) I have tested waxes that are water based and they just don’t work as they come off when you wipe them with a cloth! Petroleum wax, also known as paraffin wax, is a by-product of the petrochemical industry…it is a residual from another manufacturing process. Annie Sloan Wax upcycles… in that the petroleum by-product is used in our wax versus of it being disposed. It is a good and economical base for Annie Sloan’s wax and besides that- there is also bees wax (which comes from bees!) added to make it soft and carnauba wax (from a plant) to make it very water repellent. The paint because of its particular structure allows the wax to soak in- like quality skin lotion will on your body. This is why Chalk Paint and Annie Sloan waxes marry each other perfectly- they were created to do so and no other mixing of products will produce the same results.
Ideally- I do recommend a wax brush and that is because when you apply wax with a rag- often you will get uneven application. Why is that? To help you understand- take your two hands and press them together like you are praying. (go ahead and do it- no one is watching!) Pay attention to where the pressure is when you push your hands together. It is in the cushy part of your palm and at your fingertips…but not under your knuckles. Now you understand why people get peaks and valleys when using a rag. If you can afford a wax brush- I strongly recommend using one. You will get a much better even level of wax. So, with all that said, brush or wipe your clear wax on. I typically apply the wax in the same direction I applied the paint or taking my brush and making small circles. I do this strategically – starting at one end and working my way across the piece. I apply the wax in sections and rub off the excess before starting a new section. I typically use a lint free old white t-shirt or rags that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot. And sometimes- I use cheesecloth to wipe off the excess wax. Once the clear wax has cured… can then accent areas with dark wax if you would like to, wiping off as you go. Wait until it is no longer tacky (usually a couple of hours or less) and buff to desired sheen. Wait 24 hours in between adding more layers of clear wax if you are building up a for a stronger finish. As for the application- I like to use the analogy of hair conditioner. When you wash your hair- you put on conditioner after the shampoo. And then what do you do? Immediately wash it all off! Why is that? Because your hair will absorb only what it needs and we rinse the rest away! Imagine leaving the conditioner on your hair with out washing it off- what would happen? You definitely won’t have a “Good Hair Day!”, that’s for sure!

Why do I need to wax it before I sand, that seems backwards?

When it comes to sanding the paint prior to wax to make the surface smoother- that is fine. I often do that and almost always distress with sand paper prior to waxing. (but keep reading to understand the pros vs cons on this!)

The only caveat to be aware of when sanding your painted surface – is that sometimes people will over sand- and begin polishing and burnishing their paint. They are breaking down the surface tension, compact the paint down, – making the paint very hard versus being porous. When you do this- the wax may not be able to be absorbed uniformly into the normally – porous chalk paint- and you run the risk of streaks where the wax is not absorbed well. As long as you have a handle on this and understand at what point you begin to temper the paint – then sanding prior to waxing is totally fine!!!

Why do I need to wax my piece before I distress, that seems backwards?

Annie Sloan recommends to distress after waxing….. As an Annie Sloan stockist we are obligated to promote that on behalf of Annie. But first – let’s clarify…you apply Annie Sloan’s Clear Wax, immediately wipe off the residual and then let cure….once the wax is dry- then you distress.

Ok- here are some of the reasons Annie prefers this hierarchy to approach distressing. so first….by distressing AFTER you applied wax it actually gives you a lot more control when you are sanding since it allows you to expose layers of paint or wood underneath gradually. Meaning- it is a bit of a safeguard if you are new to this type of painting. This is how you recreate that natural look of furniture that has been painted layer by layer over the years.

Another reason is that the paint is, well, chalky. It can be very messy when distressing if not waxed prior! By waxing it first, you really cut down on the dust made when sanding which is important if doing a piece in your home. Much more convenient than having to move it out- or perhaps it is a large hutch and you do not have enough muscle to move it.

Another reason to use clear wax first is that it will protect your paint from the dark wax- if you plan on “aging” your piece. The dark wax will actually stain the paint color. Now- you may want that actual effect- and if that is the case do a test spot on the back of your piece. Otherwise- apply a coat of clear wax and let cure…..then add your dark wax. But keep in mind- having a few layers of wax- especially on cabinets or the top of the dresser is important for protection!

As for me at my shop though, I typically will distress before applying my first coat of clear wax. (I know that is the opposite of what I just wrote above though) I distress before waxing since since less elbow grease is necessary. And since I paint a lot of pieces- this does help me. It does create a bit more dust to accumulate at the base of the piece I am working on- but I manage that fine.

So- now you know there is no correct answer to your question. : )

Why do I need to use clear wax first if I want a rustic, antique look ….shouldn’t I just use the dark wax?

Excellent question, we get this one a lot! First off, please know that the dark wax goes a LONG way, you need very little of it. Let me stress that- you need very little. The reason you clear wax first is that it will protect your paint color and it adds additional layers of protection.

As for the dark wax- it has a stain in it and can permanently stain your paint color if the barrier of clear wax is not there. When you apply clear wax first & let cure, then dark wax, you can control how much dark wax is applied and where it goes. If you just use dark wax first, where you apply it is exactly where it goes. That is it, and that is where it stays, darkened paint and all!However- sometimes I want a piece to be very dark- so in that case- I make the choice to Dark Wax without a applying a clear wax layer prior.

Dark Wax is not meant to be used where you apply 2 or 3 coats of it. It is one of the final steps you do to a piece. Kind of like adding decorative roses on the top of a Birthday Cake. You don’t add roses than add an additional layer of frosting over them.

My piece is way too dark I used too much Dark Wax! Now what? (How to remove Dark Wax)

I actually did this on this piece shown. I liked how the dark wax looked on the body of the dresser, but not on the top.

If you applied a base of clear wax first and have let it cure before applying the dark wax, you can actually use more clear wax as a “magic eraser.” Just get some clear wax onto a rag and use it to remove the dark wax. Wipe in the same motion as you applied the Dark Wax.

If you did not use clear wax first (like my example shown in the photo), or the dark wax has dried completely and cured, don’t worry! First try a rag with a little mineral spirits on it. It should be damp but not dripping! I like to use “real” Mineral Spirits..meaning not the “green” Mineral Spirits that has a milky white appearance. I just don’t feel it works nearly as well as the original Mineral Spirits. With a bit of Mineral Spirits on your rag, rub the piece in the direction you applied the wax. (Meaning- do not going against the grain) The mineral spirits on the rag will remove some of the Dark Wax- but it won’t restore the piece as it was before you applied the Dark Wax. For me- in regards to this dresser shown- that was just fine and I loved the look I got. However, if this was not what you had intended….you have a little more work, but all is not lost. With chalk paint, you can simply paint right over the wax and start again. No extra prep work needed. Just make sure the dark Wax has dried! You cannot repaint over freshly applied wax…clear or dark! That is like walking on quick sand- ..not good!

My wax is still tacky and will not dry, WHY?

Again, the most common mistake I have found with calls I receive is that people have applied too much wax and are not wiping off the excess.

If you are thinking, “I applied the wax days ago and it is still tacky”- that is a sure sign you have too much wax!

The Purple Painted Lady will provide a hands on waxing demo if it will help you since an educated customer- is a prepared customer!

The Purple Painted Lady always recommends to apply wax with a wax brush (as explained above) and wipe off the excess! You cannot take too much wax off- but you do not want to be buffing your piece during this step either. When waxing- it is important to remember this:

We are not icing a cake! We are waxing furniture. So, very thin – uniform coats are best. If that is all that you remember from this hand out- you should be ok! Just like when you put moisturizer on your skin- you do not put a thick coat on, but rather a THIN coat and rub it in- so that it will be absorbed into your skin. OR when you use hair conditioner…you apply it and the do what? Rinse it off. That is because your hair will absorb what it needs. Annie’s Chalk Paint will do the same thing in regards to the wax! If you start buffing and find that your wax is still tacky, wait until it is no longer tacky to start buffing.

I would like a smoother finish. Mine has brush strokes on the surface.

If you have brush strokes in your paint and you do not like the look them – before applying your wax top coat…consider sanding your surface with some 220 or 400 grit sandpaper. Just enough to polish the surface and knock down the surface tension from the brush strokes. Also- something to consider is on your second coat…or final coat of paint…sometimes I will thin the paint by placing only a ¼ inch of water in a plastic cup. I dip the tips of my paint brush in the SMALL AMOUNT of water and then dip the tips of the brush into the quart of the paint. I am not gobbing my brush with paint here. This extra bit of water allows the paint to be a little thinner and smoother and it will glide on easier. And an end result, is a smoother finish.

Another option is using a kitchen cabinet sponge roller. I like the 4″ Whizz rollers and sell them at my shop. The roller will allow you to apply thin coats of paint.

Since Annie Sloan created Chalk Paint™ based on a desire to reproduce European charm. Depth and texture is key to the paint, making it more authentic. If, however, you would like a traditional super smooth finish, use a sponge roller to apply the paint. If that is not smooth enough, sand the surface prior to waxing with a sanding block sponge or sand paper- perhaps a 220 grit or a little higher. Or- on my “How To” page I reference using “auto body” grade sandpaper! This stuff is amazing! Use it before the wax is applied to remove some of the “ridges” left from the brush strokes.

In regards to the surface based on application, if you are more of a seasoned furniture painter, you can also use Chalk Paint™ with a paint sprayer, but you will need to thin out the paint with water to get the right viscosity.

What does it mean if the wax stays “soft” showing indentations or impressions based on placing something on top??

As with any product, it needs time to cure! But this also can mean you have too much wax on your piece!!! While Annie Sloan products are very quick and easy to use, they do need time to cure and set up- this is beyond dry time. Many factors effect the curing time (temperature, humidity, how much wax was used, etc). But if there has been adequate “curing time” …and your wax is still tacky- that is a good indication you used too much wax.
If you do have too much wax- First try a rag with a little mineral spirits on it. It should be damp but not dripping! I like to use “real” Mineral Spirits..meaning not the “green” Mineral Spirits that has a milky white appearance. I just don’t feel it works nearly as well as the original Mineral Spirits. Take your rag and place it on the opening of the Mineral Spirits. Flip the container a couple of times in different areas of the rag. (Think like how you would put nail polish remover onto a cotton swab or ball!) With a tiny bit of Mineral Spirits on your rag, rub the piece in the direction you applied the wax. This is primarily important if you applied your wax in strokes and not a circular motion. The mineral spirits on the rag will remove some of the Dark Wax OR Clear Wax – but it won’t restore the piece as it was before you applied the Wax. Worse case scenario- with chalk paint, you can simply paint right over the wax and start again. But try to avoid this and wasting your product and note that you cannot repaint over freshly applied wax…clear or dark! That is like walking on quick sand- ..not good.

I am having trouble with the under color or stain bleeding through.

Most surfaces can be covered with one coat of Chalk Paint, occasionally two is necessary. Annie likes to say that it takes one and a half coats of paint. (read my “How To” page to learn more about that technique) With that said, some pieces of furniture can be difficult to accept for any type of paint! Bleed through can occur on pieces that have been polished with oil-based polishes that include a stain like “Old English” or deep red pieces that have a mahogany stain. If bleed through is really a problem, we recommend you go back and use Zinsser Shellac! I have a whole post on my “How To” page regarding this stuff. I LOVE IT! This will act as a barrier and seal from bleeding through the paint. It will prevent water stains from bleeding through. It will help when you have a piece that smells! Seriously- if it has a musty smell or smells like cigarette smoke. Coat the whole piece using Zinsser and it will “trap” those foul smells in- and you won’t have any more issues! After the Zinsser Shellac is dry, which takes whole 5 – 8 minutes ….simply begin painting right over it! This tip also applies to when you are painting with Old White or Pure White over a dark piece. As soon as you realize- that you have bleed through- grab the Zinsser. But first- finish painting the surface you started otherwise you run the risk of seeing a “lines” or where you stopped painting. Again…. **GO TO MY “HOW TO” PAGE AND READ MY POST ON SPRAY SHELLAC. I THINK OF IT AS A MIRACLE IN A CAN) When using spray shellac- apply it to the whole piece or side- not just a spot fix! You will actually see that when you paint. TRUST ME ON THAT! Using shellac will also help if the piece stinks! Yes- I said it…the piece smells. Perhaps it was in a basement or in the home of a heavy smoker….shellac seals in whatever you do not want to smell anymore! Can you tell I love this stuff?

I want to paint my Kitchen Cabinets with Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan.

As shown in Kitchen 2012 magazine- Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan is suggested as being the hottest paint in the DIY Blogosphere!

The Purple Painted Lady is a strategic partner with Sunny Days Painting in Rochester, New York! Painting kitchen cabinets is something we do superior together. From our experience it is best to paint kitchen cabinets using at least 2 coats of paint. Again- depending on the finish you desire, you can brush or roll. (even spray if you have the capabilities) Most of our jobs are brushed or rolled)

After painting, apply your was top coat- just like you would on a dresser. The only thing additional is that when it comes to the wear and tear a kitchen endures- if you actually cook that is…. you will want to apply two or three coats of wax to seal it. Annie’s wax is water repellent and strong and basically becomes one with the Chalk Paint™.

You may need to re-wax your cabinets in a few years based on the usage, but overall, a periodic buffing should be more than adequate to maintain a superior finish. To clean your cabinets (or furniture) just use a damp cloth to clean. Lisa Rickert has children and a dog and puts her cabinets through some serious testing… and Annie has pieces that were waxed over 10 years ago in her home.

With cabinets- depending on the age of them and the style- you may want to do a test on one regarding coverage and verify that the stain does not bleed through. If you find that the stain on the doors bleeds through your paint, please reference my site here regarding my post on Zinsser Shellac. It is on my How To page.

Would I have to strip this chair before using Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan?

I have painted chairs that were in much worse condition than that and did NOT strip. The most important part is to remove any serious loose paint. So, perhaps you may want to lightly sand the area where all the paint is chipped off in this photo. Also- – paint picks up the profile of what is already existing on the foundation. So- if you do not want it to be potentially “pocketed” or uneven due to the existing chipping- you should lightly sand that area.

Lastly- what is the price for Chalk Paint™ relative to using Latex?

The Purple Painted Lady has been painting furniture for over 10 years. In the past when I used Latex paint- I always sanded (which = $ & time), then using a tact cloth to clean what I just sanded ($ & time.) Once done with those two steps- the piece would be primed ($ & time) and then the piece would be base coated and then- finally painted. (phew- makes me tired thinking about all that I use to do) Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan costs $36.95 per quart. A quart of Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan will cover roughly 150 square feet – compared to any latex sold at Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Home Deport or Lowes brand paint- which will only cover at most 100 square feet.

Chalk Paint™ also dries super fast and will allow you to begin and finish a project in one day. Depending on the size of your project- you could easily finish it in one afternoon. When you add up the time, money, and paint saved, it really is worth the price! With Chalk Paint™, the average cost invested per piece (now this is dependent on the size of the pieces you are painting) but I would estimate your costs to be between $6 -$12 (that is for both the paint and wax.)

Outdoor use: I am hoping /planning on painting some outdoor wooden chairs this next week and I am wondering what you would suggest I use as a topcoat if any. I am hoping to use a few of my favorite colors to create a beautiful peaceful garden atmosphere instead of the usual stark white or wood stained patio chairs that you usually see. Thanks again, FROM Cheryl in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

To address your question— Typically- Annie recommends NO WAX if painting “outdoor” furniture such as wrought iron, Adirondack chairs- or any piece that was built to withstand the elements.

However- if you have a protected area- like an outdoor porch where the piece will be protected from the hot sun – you can wax a piece.

Another variable is typically where you are located in regards to temperatures. Being that you are in Canada- I doubt sweltering HOT heat is an issue- but keep in mind- hot sun beating through a window on to a piece of furniture or a piece sitting outside in the sun that has been waxed- the heat can reactivate the wax a bit. Now with that said- keep in mind that Annie has had her Decorative Paint Products for over 20 years and they have been used in Spain where temps can get very warm- and there has been no issues.

The last idea- is sealing the chalk paint with an outdoor polyurethane. You may want to get the spray can kind and carefully cover the whole chair uniformly. : )

I used the lacquer on my floor over Pure White Chalk Paint and it is yellowing a little, why?

If you have gotten some yellowing with the lacquer- you applied it too think. It is very important to roll it on in a thin coat using a sponge roller.

Have another question you don’t see here? Please contact me and I will be happy to answer your question! Just email and note “Dear Purple Painted Lady” in your subject.

The Purple Painted Lady Barn Sale & Junk Jubilee happening on 9/29

This is going to be a HUGE event for upstate New York! Just about a week away from The Purple Painted Lady Barn Sale & Junk Jubilee! Happening on Saturday, September 29th from 10 – 5pm! Please visit our Barn Sale Page here to see a list of the over 50 artisans that will be there!!!!! We have a Class Rock Band, Psychic Village, Food Vendors, and decorative painting demos! Come and meet Jami from freckled laundry and learn how to faux zinc a table top, or learn about “Keeping Bees” from Sally…or check out my Chalk Paint™ demos! We will have ZumbAtomics happening through out the ay for the kids (& grown ups too) This is a fundraiser for The Green Angels…bring & donate an item from their Wish List and receive a FREE RAFFLE TICKET.

The Purple Painted Lady will have some painted pieces available for sale – one of which is this funky whimsical table for your breakfast area! It is the perfect size- not too big and not too small!!! 36″ round X 31″ tall. Hand painted with Old White & Provence & Graphite Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan. $235 …Come and see her at The Purple Painted Lady Barn Sale & Junk Jubilee!

To RSVP and receive a FREE Raffle Ticket for the items being donated- please visit our EVENT Facebook page by clicking here!

Thanks and hope to see you there!

Chalk Paint™ Sample Boards showcasing both Clear & Dark Wax

I have been working on these photos longer than I would like to admit! And I am still not done. But I promise to have them all uploaded to Pinterest by the end of the weekend.

I hope that you enjoy these Chalk Paint™ Sample Boards showcasing both Clear & Dark Wax. They are a great way for you to see the possibilities of each color. And I have a lot of fun pairing up different colors to create new color combinations to paint future pieces in.

Each sample board was painted with two coats of Chalk Paint™. Then a layer of clear wax was applied to the whole sample board. Once dry- we taped off half and applied dark wax, and immediately wiped off the excess.

Click here to see Chalk Paint™ Sample Boards showcasing both Clear & Dark Wax or visit my on-line store to see each color.

Come and Visit Me @ The Shops On West Ridge starting Thursday, August 9th

The Purple Painted Lady is very excited about having a presence on the West side of Rochester! Come and Visit Me @ The Shops On West Ridge starting Thursday, August 9th! Here is an example of the pieces I will have available for you! If you love whimsy- you will love this tall boy. He is hand painted in Louis Blue, Graphite & Coco Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan and embellished a bit with some pale metallic gold…and then to provide incredible protection- both clear & dark wax. The dimensions of this bad boy are 53.5″ Tall X 38 ” Wide X 18 ” Deep. All solid wood and with 5 dove tailed drawers – you will have plenty of storage! Priced to move at $425. (and if you have a piece you would like painted to match- no problem! Email me with a photo and dimensions and I can provide a quote)

How To Make A “Wash” with Chalk Paint®

I have received a bunch of questions pertaining to the Bombay dresser that I posted on my Facebook page back in Feb. 2012 where I did a Coco wash over Antoinette. (see photo below)


You might remember this one since it had that pretty pale gold French poem stencil across the front! Ooh la la! Anyway- back to the wash “how to”….the type of paint you use for doing a wash is VERY important.

I am focusing on Chalk Paint® Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan here because that is my favorite paint and because of that….. it is what I sell in my shop and use when I want a velvety, silk-like finish. (Now don’t get me wrong- I still use Latex and love it depending on the end product I am going for – but try making a “wash” with latex…(I would like to stress the sarcasm meant with that comment!)

This dresser was probably purchased at Sears back in the 1970′s. You know this style …because every little girl had a bedroom suite like it. And these pieces often had a laminate style top- which this one had. So, without any sanding or priming- I first painted the French Provincial dresser using Chalk Paint™ in the color Antoinette. You can what the surface looked like originally in the photo to the right.

I love pink- but felt this piece needed a bit more. So, the stencil, “Spring Time in Paris” from Royal Design Studio is fantastic!

And since this is a French Provincial style dresser, painted in Antoinette- it seemed appropriate to use a stencil written in French. Now this is a big stencil. It is really meant for the wall or floor. The dimensions are 51.75″ w x 21.5″ h. Made from reusable 10 mil mylar which is very substantial and can take long term use! Now, this stencil comes in 2 parts. Use both parts to complete the whole stencil. Based on the size of my dresser- I only used the first half- which means if you speak fluent French- you will read only partial sentences. (but shh! Since most of us won’t ever know that)

Using a little Modern Masters Metallic Gold- I carefully blotted the lettering and stenciled the front. Just a small amount of Modern Masters Metallic Pale Gold will do it! I use an inexpensive stencil brush that you can pick up at any craft store. Get paint on the brush and then blot some off….remember we are stenciling and do not want to have that much paint on our brush that it squirts under the stencil. Then with a vertical up and down motion- I blot the stencil. When it comes to stenciling- here are some tips to help you:

Stenciling Tip 1: Use a Professional Tool
Stenciling brushes are round with short, stiff bristles. Use it in a quick up-and-down movement to dab paint onto your stencil. This helps prevent paint getting under the edges. Never apply in a circular motion. A sponge or small roller works well too, but I prefer the brush.

Stenciling Tip 2: Work from The Outside

Start panting on the edges of the stencil, working into the center, rather than from the center outwards. Again this helps prevent paint getting under the edges as you’re less likely to accidentally bump the brush against an edge.

Stenciling Tip 3: Less is More
Don’t overload a brush with paint as it will bleed under the edge of the stencil. Load the brush lightly, so that the ends of the bristles are covered evenly- blot or wipe off any excess on a piece of paper or cloth.

Stenciling Tip 4: Think Thin
You will get better results by applying two thin coats rather than one thick one. Wait for the first to dry before applying the second. Do not remove your stencil until you are absolutely sure you are done.

Stenciling Tip 5: Get Sticky
Keep a stencil in place by taping it at the top and bottom with a piece of tape. Painter’s Tape works best as it’s very easy to remove and should not pull off any paint from the surface.

Stenciling Tip 6: Go Multi-Colored
To use more than one color in a stencil, use tape to mask off areas of the stencil you don’t want in a particular color so you do not forget and get carried away with the wrong color.

Stenciling Tip 7: Practice Makes Perfect
If you’re using various stencils together, first try it out on a piece of paper. It’s far easier to find out that something isn’t working at this stage versus having to try to correct it when you’re painting on your final surface.

Stenciling Tip 8: X-rated Stencils
Old x-rays are great for cutting stencils, so if you were unfortunate and have some – put them to good use.

Stenciling Tip 9: Wash Regularly
If you’re doing a repeat design, wash your stencil regularly in warm water to keep the edges free of paint. If there’s some paint on an edge, you won’t get a crisp edge to your painted stencil. As paper stencils don’t lend themselves to washing, acetate stencils are better for repeat designs. With a paper or card stencil, wipe off the excess paint, then leave the stencil for a bit so the paint on it dries, before using it again.

Stenciling Tip 10: Store stencils Flat
A stencil, obviously, needs to be flat to be usable. To stop it from buckling, put it between two pieces of cardboard and store it somewhere flat.

After finishing the stencil- I still felt the dresser needed something. So, at this point- I thought I would do a wash using the Coco.

To make a “wash” – I first pour some Chalk Paint® into a plastic cup. A “wash” goes a long way in regards to coverage. For this dresser I used about a half cup of the Coco Chalk Paint™. I then took my Sharpie marker and made a line on my plastic cup noting how high the paint was in it. I did this in case I needed to make more.

Next…using a teaspoon add water to the paint-one teaspoon at a time (remember to measure and note the amount you add)….less is best since you can always add more water. The mixture of water and paint should begin to thin out. (Keep your paint:water ratio written down in case you need to make more!) The thinness or viscosity of the paint will be based on your preference. No recipe or rule here- but remember this is a “wash”– if you wanted to paint the piece- no need to add water. I added only a few teaspoons for my Antoinette painted dresser.

When I applied the Coco wash to the Antoinette dresser- I brushed it on with a cheap chip brush versus a heavy Purdy bristle brush. I laid the brush in its normal position…but used more of the tips versus the whole brush. Immediately next, I used a clean, lint free rag and wiped off the excess. That’s it- pretty simple, huh?

You do not want too much of the wash on the brush= enough to cover but not enough to cause dripping. I took the drawers out of the dresser and set them individually on their back as so to not have gravity work against me….like I show in this photo:

Bourbon dresser with drawer out

You can make a “wash” that goes on over a piece that has already been waxed or not waxed. I prefer doing the wash before I apply a coat of wax…but that is just my preference.

A wash makes for a real beautiful translucent effect! Let dry and then wax as normal. This is a great way to make a piece richer- which I think I did to this dresser.! OR…perhaps you want to try a bold color like Barcelona Orange, but are too chicken to “go for it”…I would suggest trying it in a wash first. It seems to be a more conservative approach and feels safer! And why buy glazes when you can do something similar but in any Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan!

Try this “wash” effect with a color like Duck Egg over Old White….or French Linen over Graphite, Provence over Old Ochre OR just Old White “washed” over natural wood! There are no rules- but I hope the following helpful hints make this project idea more do-able for you! Please keep in mind the following….

1. Always note the water to paint ratio in case you do not make enough to finish the whole project. (can I stress this any more? But I learned my lesson once and ended up goofing up a piece over this simple rule! Learn from my mistake!)

2. Brush on the wash in strategic brush strokes–meaning keep your lines straight and clean

3. Be cautious not to drip on areas of the furniture you are not currently washing

4. Put a drop cloth down if doing this in your home…you will drip some on the floor.

5. Place your cup with the wash on a paper plate to keep work surface clean

6. Apply wash in small sections and wipe off – then move on to the next section. During the wiping off process- be careful to not have “rag blotch marks.” Start at the top and wipe off in clean, even pressured strokes all the way to the opposite side. Do not stop half way or go against the direction you want the streaks in. Never go in circles with the rag. If your rag becomes too saturated- get a new one.

7. I used a chip brush to apply- I like the streaky effect from the bristles.

8. Plan twice, “wash” once. Meaning- know your piece and your plan on how you are going to approach the project…top first, then sides.

9. If you are just trying a wash for the first time (or 2nd or 3rd) – it is best to do this on a piece that is smooth across. Meaning- not raised panels, or with carved details.

10. Always wipe off your wash in the direction of the brush strokes. Never do it in circles- it will look a mess.

11. Never place your rag down in the middle of a wash. Gently wipe from one direction to the other- otherwise you run the risk of leaving an imprint of the rag in the middle of your painted surface.

12. If you get a wash in a spot that you did not want…don’t fret. Let it dry- then gently sand it off using some 400 grit sandpaper.

And lastly- if you purchase the stencil I wrote about above – let me know your thoughts. I guarantee you will love it! And if you try this- please post a photo of your before and after on my FB page!

Here is another project I did a little wash on- for this project however, I was a bit more strategic in the location of where I applied the “wash.” I was going for the quintessential “Beach” feel – so a I used Old White to make my wash. I literally- dipped the tips of my brush into the paint that was on the paint can, and then dipped the bristles into a bit of water. I strategically brushed on the “wash” over the Duck Egg Blue dresser and then- using a cheesecloth, wiped some off. Always wipe in the direction you painted. (ps….the camera on my phone is quite mediocre – this looks much nicer in person!)Thanks for reading!