Can you wash the towels or rags that you use for waxing furniture?

“Can you wash the towels or rags that you use for waxing furniture?”

That is a question I am often asked. My response is yes….BUT! …..I would NOT wash them in my washing machine or place them in my clothes dryer.

Here is what you should do:

Cheese cloth for shopping cartPlace the dirty towels in a plastic bucket (the kind you would use to wash your car) and fill it with really hot – hot water and dish soap. (use a dish soap that contains a degreaser like Dawn Platinum.) Then swirl them around using a wooden stick. Make sure there enough hot water that it covers the towels totally and they have room to agitate.

Dawn Platinum The Purple Painted Lady to clean dirty wax rags

Once the hot water cools a bit, feel free to ring them out. Then- (and VERY important) …hang them on a clothes line to dry.

Two important reasons why NOT to use your washing machine or dryer! 1. you do not want any residual wax getting in your washer or dryer- where it could then transfer onto your nice clothes! 2. wax can be flammable. (So, with that said- let’s keep it away from a heat source – like a dryer.)

Better Than Cheese Cloth The Purple Painted LadyClick HERE to access the Better Than Cheesecloth available on our website to buy.

Click HERE to access the Cheesecloth available on our website to buy.

How to Paint the Hinges or Hardware on Your Cabinets or Furniture

Painting the hinges or hardware on your cabinets or furniture? YES!

Sometimes- on a piece I do not want to remove the hinges or the hardware. I am either being lazy OR…the hardware is not super special and I want it to blend in with the piece versus stand out.

When it comes to painting hinges. I have done that many times- and more often- I am only painting the hinges BUT NOT the hardware.

The advantage of removing hardware versus painting it in place- is that it leaves the door open to easily change it out in the future! Once you paint over in place- it creates a paint seam that will be void of paint beneath. Also- it will be difficult to remove the hardware later if you change your mind about it.

As for painting the hinges though (and hardware) …. it holds up perfectly. Often- on kitchen cabinets- we will paint the hinges- as so to make them visually disappear. That way they are not screaming out, “hey, look at me – I am a hinge.” Who cares about hinges. It is the handles and knobs that we want to have fun with. This is is similar to choosing jewelry for your self- but in this case- it is going on the drawer or cabinet.
Louis Blue Old White Hutch base painted

The piece shown above is painted with Louis Blue & Old White Chalk Paint®.

The most important thing to understand when painting hinges- is to apply Chalk Paint® lightly. Basically – like you were “dry brushing” the paint on- and build up the paint slightly in a couple layers after the previous has dried.

When painting hinges, I open the doors too to expose the hinge in different angles- so I get complete coverage.

You do NOT want the paint to be applied thick or have it “caking” in the crevices of the hinge- because that is when it will chip off once dry.

Make sure to wax the hinges also using a rag that already has some residual wax on it from when the cabinet or furniture piece was waxed.

Not sure what it means to “dry brush?” Check out this link HERE.

And remember- we sell Chalk Paint at $34.95 per quart. I ship out every week day all over the US. We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same. We ship same day if your order is placed before our daily UPS pick up. Also- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you. (my shameless, but honest plug) To access our On-Line Store click HERE.

: ) And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project! And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!

Here is a little post about what I mean when it comes to what you should expect from us- click HERE to read that.

Thanks so much!
Trish –

Chalk Paint® on a Floor With Annie’s Lacquer for Protection

I had to share this AMAZING transformation by Red Living of a pine plank floor painted in Chalk Paint®.

PicMonkey Collage The purple Painted Lady Red Living

Paris Grey was the color of choice for this chic…well, soon to be chic Hair Salon – that opened a few stores away from their shop. They painted the whole floor using Annie’s newest 2 inch flat brush.


If interested in checking out Annie’s flat LARGE paint brush that gives a smoother finish, click HERE.

Red Living stated that they loved the “bounce” in this brush – along with water – they covered 1200 sq feet with 2 quarts of Paris Grey Chalk Paint®. (YES! You read that correctly- they watered down the paint and since they only did one coat- they covered the entire salon floor!)

The Purple Painted Lady Annie LARGE FLAT PAINT BRUSH

The floor is protected using Annie’s Lacquer. Her Lacquer was created for inside use on floors with high traffic!

If interested in learning more about Annie’s Lacquer – click HERE.

The Lacquer did pull up some of the tannins from the pine wood through the paint- (since a coat of shellac was not applied prior) but this turned out brilliant cause it looks like they added more colours – like chateau grey and duck egg which “appeared” on some of the boards – love – looks very custom. (the mirror frames are old white/cream.)

To read more about when to use shellac, click HERE.

Red Living used 5 litres of Lacquer. The first coat was watered down a slight bit and they used a wide brush.

Here is an important tip! Get a nice brush that is specifically for applying Lacquer!)

The wide brush used to apply the Lacquer- they said made it go on beautifully. Most importantly with Lacquer- is that you do not dilly-dally. Apply it fast, with a confident brush stroke and do not back brush. To read about Annie’s Lacquer – click HERE.

For cleaning painted floors coated with Annie’s Lacquer, you can use just about any household cleaner. A current fav of our Annie Sloan technical instructor is Fabuloso … they shared that they love the smell.


If interested in purchasing Annie Sloan products, please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. We have Chalk Paint® available for $34.95 per quart every day, we offer low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day (as long as Pete, our UPS guy has not come already!)

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location as of July 1, 2014 at 1 West Genesee Street, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Click HERE for Store hours and information.
Moving from Solvay to Baldwinsville ASU  The Purple Painted Lady

Creating a Diamond (Harlequin) Pattern

Cute Little Dresser- Basic Painting How To and Harelquin (Diamond) Pattern

On my Facebook Page I like to post notes about what I am doing in my shop- here is a flash from my past!

It was an adorable little dresser that I painted in many Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan colors: My color choices? Well…..I was a bit indecisive so I selected Paloma, Old White, Country Grey, Versailles, Emile, Henrietta & Old Ochre.

There are many reason why I love Chalk Paint®…one of them is the ease of use of the paint. It is exactly like how Annie Sloan describes it – it is a kind paint. First of all- it is super easy to apply. And – the process is super quick. All I did to “prep” this piece was wipe it down with some Odorless Mineral Spirits and I shop vac the drawers out. I started by painting the top in Annie Sloan Chalk Paint Old White..which took a whole 5 minutes.

There was specs of dark “stain” on the top…and the Old White covered it all. Next I started to paint the body of it in Annie Sloan’s Emile- which is a beautiful warm soft aubergine color with pink red undertones giving it a rich complexity that makes a sophisticated lilac tone. I LOVE this color!!!!! I started the whole process at 11:03 am and finished painting the entire skeleton of the dresser within 15 minutes. (Now keep in mind- my store is open on Saturdays and I am doing this all the while I have visitors.) I didn’t use anything fancy to paint the dresser – in fact- I used one of my handy old brushes.

Here are a few suggestions that may be helpful for you.

First- I always put whatever I am painting, up on scrap blocks to elevate it off the floor. You can see my blocks in the photo above. It will make painting the ends of its legs easier, especially if you have a drop cloth on the floor. For some reason- drop cloths always bunch UP and get in the way of painting.
Second- If you paint pieces to sell or if this is for your home…please don’t forget to paint the back of it. I like to use the analogy that when a woman goes to the hair dresser she still gets a cut & color on the back of her head…even though she cannot see it. The same applies to furniture. And this includes painting inside the drawers. By putting in this little extra effort – it gives the piece double duty in case you want to use it to divide a space in a room or, depending the size of the dresser, if it is small enough, place it at the foot of the bed. The back can be kept the same color, or use a surprise color! But definitely paint it. A piece that is painted all the way around – conveys that it has more value and commands a higher price)

That whole surprise color idea- applies to inside of the drawers too. Use a fun accent color for a bit of whimsy. Or- if this is for your teenage daughter who insisted she wanted her walls of her painted in bright neon orange, but you compromised on a different color- use the orange in the drawers! She will love it!!! Annie Sloan likes to refer to this surprise color inside as, “Quiet Riot.” I think that is so cute!

Now I know we are all in a hurry and time is of the essence- but go to the effort and take the knobs off the drawers as shown below. : ) It will make painting much easier- and besides- now you can decide to use the existing knobs or purchase new ones without the worry of having to match the shape and size. Also, you won’t have the existing hardware painted on- which prevents switching them later. Seems elementary, but thought I should write it.

For the top of the dresser, I love whimsy. So, how about a little Harlequin design? I think….yes!

So many of you tape this pattern…and I often wonder why? That takes so much time and you run the possible risk of pulling up your previously painted base.

I personally like to create a template and then a simple grid…and map out my diamonds.

This process works great on dresser tops, the side of dressers, on buffet doors, front doors, seats of chairs, you name it! Keep reading below and you will understand!

To begin this “harlequin” step, first I determine what size I personally think would look good for the diamonds. I take a ruler and place it from the front to the back dresser and measure the depth. From this – I decide that three FULL diamonds or close to it would look best. (I do not like seeing a diamond pattern on a piece of furniture where the diamonds are not centered and one side of the pattern is cut off, OR where the last row is cut off half way. This looks very…amateur to me. (I apologize- if that offends you, but that is really what I think when I see a poorly planned pattern) So, if you plan and measure twice, you can create a layout that looks cohesive and professional.

So- I take the measurement using a ruler and divide it by 3. (Find your old yard stick – and just make sure that the ruler is not bending or warped)

The rule of thumb for a Harlequin diamond (now that is a bit redundant isn’t it) is that the height of the diamond should be twice the width.

This is just a guide- if you prefer more of a square shape- do that instead, this is your dresser.

Next, I create a template using card stock or some heavy paper. I map out my diamond, draw the shape using a pen, and then cut the shape out. I like to leave the lines visible inside my cut edge.

I then find the center point on top of my dresser and using water color pencils – I draw my lay out. Remember that watercolor pencils will blend once wet- so make sure to use a color lead that is similar to the color you plan on painting. Why is this helpful? Well, if you are doing a layout and plan to paint pink diamonds on a white base- choose a light pink watercolor pencil. Once you paint over the pink lines- they will blend in perfectly with your design, versus the grey from a graphite pencil.

So, just in case you missed what I was trying to stress above…..never use regular lead / graphite pencils since the lead smears and is difficult to cover. And although Chalk Paint® has wonderful coverage qualities, keep it easy for yourself – and do not use your kid’s school pencil. The Graphite pencil is a very stable material. It does not fade in light. It does not bleed in water unless other dyes are added and for other reasons, lead from “traditional” pencils can just be messy.

I typically buy my watercolor pencils from Hobby Lobby or Michael’s Crafts, but I think you can find them at WalMart too.
watercolor pencil

How I approach this is that I make a grid to find the center point easily. I place my “diamond” template centered on top of the dresser and begin my layout always using either a watercolor pencil (some people use a piece of chalk- but I don’t – they tend to smear a little)

Again…never use your run of the mill lead or graphite pencil because depending on the paint you are using- it can be a bear to cover and the lead will smear in you paint and alter the color.

When I painted the diamonds in using about 6 different colors- to get more interest- I would thin out the paint- almost to a “wash” consistency just to get variation in hue and depth of color. It gives the piece more of a water color feel. I personally- like to make sure that the brush strokes always go in the same direction. Also- use a “Flat Bristle” artist’s brush. Click HERE to see an example of some at Hobby Lobby.

Flat Brush Hobby Lobby

When I was doing all of this – my shop was open and I had multiple paint sales and people coming in with questions about Chalk Paint®. So- I did not finish the piece that day. Below are some additional photos of how it looked through the progress. I painted out the front panel on the drawers in a cream because my next step after finishing the harlequin pattern was to add a pretty landscape of one of our beautiful NY Finger Lakes.

Side of buffet

  • HandPainted Buffet
    Buffet and chairs PORTRAIT
    Slide 10 2nd table top view
    Harlequin kitchen backsplash with name

    Harelquin website picmonkey

    Lisa Close up of door

  • Do You Paint Pieces Professionally- Always Have A Contract

    Some of you may be able to relate to this scenario ~ you learn about Chalk Paint decorative paint by Annie Sloan and decide to buy some. You get it, paint something in your home and everyone loves it.

    Then all of a sudden…BAM! People are asking you to paint pieces for them.

    If you start doing projects for others and don’t write up a contract- you are setting yourself up for an eventual problem.

    Bed with before and afterI always write up a contract using Microsoft Word. Here are some things I account for when creating one.
    Old White dresser Before and after

    Always list out the following in a contract:

    Note the customer’s contact information such as address, cell phone, email.

    Specify the dimensions of the piece. This is especially important if you quoted the piece via email. Sometimes people make mistakes in estimating the size of their furniture. If it arrives bigger than what was quoted- increase your price since you will use more materials and spend more time on it.

    Note down the required preparation you will have to do, such as cleaning, sanding out scratches, applying wood filler, applying shellac, etc?

    Specify the paint color(s) that are to be used.

    How many coats of each color will be applied- (sometimes I note a minimum of 2 coats of paint.)

    What is the type of finish your client desires? (smooth, are visible brushstrokes ok?)

    If you will need to sand to reduce brushstrokes (charge more!)

    Does your client want distressing? If yes, how much? Do they want it just on the corners and edges- or more aggressive distressing on even some of the flat surfaces?

    Specify the top coat you will use. I prefer wax! So, specify color of wax, number of applications of wax.

    Will there be gilding applied? If yes, specify how heavy it will appear and approximate locations.

    Will existing hardware be used? Or will new hardware be used? If new- do new holes need to be drilled and old holes filled? (requiring wood fill & shellac)

    If current hardware will be used, will it be painted or left as is?

    Are you painting the hinges or not?

    What about the inside of the piece? Will it be painted & waxed? (charge more!)

    I like to suggest a fun color for inside drawers.

    Note if there are requests to change the contract after it has been signed – the customer will potentially incur an additional expense.

    Do you offer pick up and delivery to and from the customer’s home? Account for this time and expense.)

    Make sure that the piece is properly stretched wrapped for delivery to ensure safety. Include the cost of all materials in your quote estimate.

    I always note that the piece is to be paid in full upon delivery. If payment is not made within 30 days of completion, piece becomes the property of “your business.”

    Include an image of the piece you are painting “as is” before painting.

    Always ask customers if there is an example on-line of a piece they want theirs to look like once done (include that “inspiration” image and url to find it again on line in the contract.) This will be very helpful for you when you go back to the contract later in time since it will remind you all that you need to do!

    Add a notation that all hand painted pieces will have unique characteristics.

    And lastly- the more detailed architecture on a piece of furniture equates to more time you will spend painting and waxing. Always make sure to account for that in your quote calculation.

    I personally like to paint the back of all pieces I do and the bottom (but do not wax.) The “bottom” meaning if you were laying on the ground looking up – it is all painted!

    Protect yourself after delivering the furniture by including a care tag for the customer so they know how to properly maintain their painted piece! I wrote a post with some suggestions on what to include in your care tag. Click HERE to read that post.

    And lastly, I add a note that the “delivery date” is a target date and based on being a small business- adjustments may happen. (I do this cover to myself in case of delays) Have the customer sign off and date your contract and give them a copy. This was especially helpful last month when my husband and I experienced quite a few deaths in our families. For four weeks in a row, we lost someone. Between calling hours and funerals and emotional stress- it impacted me and my work schedule.
    Well, I hope that this information helps you in regards to some of the things I account for in a custom painting contract. It is so important that you not only deliver an incredible, high quality piece to your customers that knocks their socks off, but also- protect yourself from a business perspective. Now- if you can help me in return….. : )

    If you ever need to purchase Annie Sloan Products –I would hope you would consider doing so through me! (The Purple Painted Lady) I ship out every week day all over the US. I included a link below to my on-line shop below. We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same. Also- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you. (my shameless but honest plug) And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project! And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!
    Rochester Woman Mag Ad Proposal before and after
    And lastly- if I was helpful to you- ….please consider leaving a comment on my Facebook business page sharing your positive experience or thoughts about The Purple Painted Lady. Click HERE to access my Facebook page.

    Stay warm everyone!
    Trish ~ The Purple Painted Lady

    If you are interested in the child’s bed I did above- it was an additional project from the mural job I completed at a home. After I was done with the walls- I just felt the bed needed to weight the room better- so I stained it and added simple store bought letters that I painted in animal prints. I used Velcro to attach the letters. Super easy and cute! Here are some images of the mural I did.

    Train The Little Engine That Could
    Zebra JACKS Full wall shot
    monkey elephant
    lion with grass

    Do You Paint Pieces Professionally – Always Wrap Pieces Before Delivering

    Do you paint pieces of furniture for customers?

    If yes, do you use stretch wrap to prepare them for delivery back to your customer?…

    If your answer is “no” – you really need to get some. The stuff is awesome!

    Stretch wrap

    Today we are delivering a hutch and a buffet that I painted with Chalk Paint decorative paint by Annie Sloan using the color Graphite. I mixed three (1 ounce) bottles of India Ink in with the Graphite and it made the Graphite become a deep, rich black!

    During the move, we are touching the hinges on the trailer, opening doors to get out, and the weather may not always be picture perfect. So, the stretch wrap totally protects a painted piece from all of those variables. And since the piece is painted in black- any little thing will be visible on it. Just like the example that in dark colored cars- finger prints, dirt and dings are more easily seen compared to light colored cars. Seriously- next time you are on the road- pay attention to the black cars and see how obvious the dirt is versus a white car. However, in my case- it does not matter what color I have painted a piece- every piece gets the “white glove” treatment and I use commercial stretch wrap all over to protect it.

    Buffet Graphite India Ink Jan 2014

    So, do you like the buffet? My customer requested that it be painted first with Greek Blue and then finished in “black.” The inside has that “Quiet Riot” effect that Annie Sloan references in her one of her awesome books since I painted the inside in Greek blue.

    hutch buffet 2014 January Lower name

    And- since this was painted in Graphite- by using stretch wrap, it really eliminates the issue of finger prints all over it. I just recommend that you wrap your piece just before it leaves your shop and unwrap it immediately once in place at your customer site.

    So, if you paint pieces for customers, give them the “white glove” treatment and invest in some stretch wrap. It is awesome since it protects the piece and an additional benefit, is that it keeps doors and drawers from opening during the move. You do not need to worry as much if it is sprinkling out or in my case, snowing! It also looks very professional!

    Uline is a great source for stretch wrap. Check out Uline HERE.

    And….if you are interested in purchasing India Ink- click HERE.

    If you are interested in purchasing Graphite Chalk Paint – click HERE.

    Are you interested in purchasing one of Annie’s books – click HERE.

    So, if you think the information I share here on my website is helpful- please consider LIKING my Facebook page. Click HERE to access my Facebook page and make sure to click the “LIKE” button that is to the right under the banner photos across the top of the page.
    Facebook Interest Feed

    Thanks so much!

    Option For Making Graphite Chalk Paint

    Chalk Paint® decorative paints by Annie Sloan are beautiful and I personally, love the color of Graphite.

    It is a rich color -close to being a slate, or think …dark pencil lead. And depending on the orientation of the surface painted- it can appear darker or lighter. It does have depth and interest- and clearly plays wonderfully with other pieces painted in a true black. When decorating a room- try to avoid the whole “Matchy-matchy” approach. Layer texture, patterns and hues of color – including various shades of black.

    Smooth as Glass Waxed Finish- try this!

    Want your pieces painted with Chalk Paint® and CLEAR Waxed to feel smooth as glass?

    Try our Steel Wool Grade 000 (link to our on-line store is noted below.) Pads are packaged and sold in poly sleeves, each sleeve contains 16 pads. Cost is $5.95 for the whole sleeve. This is a great deal and these will last you a long time.
    Steel wool


    1. After you have applied your clear wax and removed the residual from your whole piece- go back and use one steel wool Grade 000 pad.
    2. I recommend using the steel wool once you have finished waxing the whole piece- because if you are applying the wax correctly- your piece should be totally dry.
    3. Now take one steel wool pad and gently wipe your piece in the same direction as the grain of your brush strokes – from edge to edge. Do this just for a few swipes and then stop and feel. I like to glide the top of my hand over it to gauge how smooth it now is. Do you like the touch of it?

    Just an FYI – one steel wool pad will easily do a whole dresser. But save the pad and use it for your next project that is of the same Chalk Paint® color.

    This grade of steel wool will polish your clear wax and you will be in awe of the finish your painted and clear waxed piece now has.

    BE AWARE!:

    * First time using? Do this in an area on the piece that is less conspicuous, compared to the top of your piece or front dresser drawer. (just like as I recommend trying Dark Wax the first time- experiment on a little cheap item first or paint the back of the piece and wax it- so you can practice techniques there.)
    * Have you noticed in all my instructions, I keep stating CLEAR wax? That is because if you try this on Dark Wax and it has not cured- depending on the amount applied- you can start to lift some of the dark wax. Again- practice or start on the back first.
    * Don’t scrub in a circular motion. I like to wipe the steel wool pads in the direction (or the grain) of my brush strokes.
    * Using the steel wool pads will create a little sheen in the wax. So, if you are looking to keep a flat, matte finish, you have been forewarned. : )

    Rhodes American Steel Wool is the choice of professionals and do-it-yourselfers for wood finishing projects, as well as for cleaning, polishing and refinishing. There are 16 pads per poly sleeve. Cost is $5.95 for the whole sleeve.

    * High Quality Steel Wool
    * Great Tool for Surface Preparation

    In the picture showcasing the steel wool above … you see a drawer that I painted.

    I first painted the dresser with Louis Blue, then Greek Blue, finished with a coat of Florence Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan. One coat of each color.

    Then I next used sandpaper (I think some 180 grit) and sanded back the edges and corners to give it a worn, aged effect. Some pieces evolve, so I then waxed the dresser thinking I was done – BUT I WASN’T. I realized I wanted some of the base wood to show through. Since I already had 3 solid coats of Chalk Paint® and had waxed the dresser a few days ago, I took a pad of sandpaper with an aggressive grit of only 80 and sanded the flat surface aggressively in the areas to reveal more of the colors beneath and the wood base. In the areas I wanted the wood of the piece to show- so you and where I used the aggressive grit sandpaper- you can see how I revealed that.

    Lastly, I applied my clear wax exactly as I demo in my VIDEO HERE. Once I had the clear wax completed- (which means it does not feel tacky and my fingers can glide across the surface) – I then lightly polished the drawer with some of the Grade 000 steel wool.

    You will immediately feel a difference. The wax finish will be like glass!

    Distress Before OR After Waxing…. that is the question.

    Distress before OR after waxing, that is the question.

    You can distress prior to waxing or after. There are reasons on when you might want to distress after, however, I typically distress before. >br>
    If you sand before waxing- it will be less work since you are not sanding through the wax application. If you sand before waxing though- the Chalk Paint® that you are removing with the sand paper will turn into a fine powder and settle down on the floor…put a drop cloth down to save on mess. AND never- use a damp mop to clean up the particles! The moisture will turn the powder into a wash and you will get the color all over your floor.

    If you sand AFTER waxing- it takes a bit more elbow grease, and you will probably want to add another layer of clear wax to protect the raw areas you sanded…but if this is your first time ever painting and distressing…by having a wax application on the painted piece first- you won’t accidentally take off too much paint, as you learn how to finesse the sand paper with the right amount of pressure.

    Also-(and for example) if you painted a piece in Graphite while it is sitting in an all white room that has white carpet, I would still put a drop cloth down and distress after waxing. If you sand after waxing, you will see you have less dust since the wax and paint removed seem to stick more onto your sandpaper.

    Can Chalk Paint® go over a previously crackled piece or freshly painted Milk Paint that is chipping?

    Painting Chalk Paint® over a previously painted surface that has some type of effect – will most likely pass through to the Chalk Paint® or Milk Paint.

    This would probably be the case no matter what type of paint you were using.

    So for example—– if you paint Chalk Paint® (or Milk Paint…or Latex) over a previously crackled surface- it will most likely cause the Chalk Paint® to crackle in some spots, if not all over.

    Painting Chalk Paint® over a piece that was recently painted with Milk Paint that is chipping- will still cause the Chalk Paint® to chip since the foundation beneath …the “Milk Paint” is still chipping since it has not “bonded” with the base surface.

    My suggestion for the crackle – would be to sand all of the crackled surface off as so to remove it.

    With the chipping Milk Paint, sand it back lightly to accelerate any loose paint to come off.

    Then in both examples, blow off the surface of any dust and use Zinsser Clear Shellac to as so to seal the surface (I like the aerosol cans- but you have to use the spray outside) and apply a thorough coat of shellac over the whole piece. Possibly two coats. Shellac is very inexpensive and can be a life saver depending on the piece you are working on.

    I have a post HERE on my website that I suggest you read.

    And don’t forget that The Purple Painted Lady sells both Chalk Paint® & Milk Paint on-line and ship same day at a low flat rate price….and it is the sales of paint that allow us to be here to answer questions. Visit our on-line store HERE.

    Please feel free to “PIN” the image below as so to have quick access to this post.”

    Painting Over a Crackled or Chipping Surface