It costs $36.95 for one quart, which can be considered pricey compared to $14 for a can of latex at your local hardware store. But when you factor in the time and money you save because you don’t have to sand, prime, or remove stains and varnishes, it’s absolutely worth it!!! Not to mention- the ultimate finish you will get on your piece. The end product produces a smooth satin like feel!!!!!!

It also goes a long, long way. I’ve used one can to paint two large dressers and several smaller pieces.

Do you use a special brush to paint with chalk paint?

Nope. Regular old Chip Brushes are fine for the paint and wax- you can purchase these at The Purple Painted Lady- or any BIG BOX store or even WalMart. Play with the brush bristles a little and consider rinsing the brush and letting it dry to accelerate any loose bristles to come out. (you will still get some when painting- just due to brushes doing that- so use your finger or a gentle hand with a tweezers to pluck the bristle out of your paint. Be gentle not to effect previous coats of paint.)

LIKE ALL PAINT or WAXES-
1. Before using- flip it upside down and shake good! (all the good stuff will have settled to the bottom and you will want to make sure it is incorporated)

2. Store at room temperature- never store paint in the garage where it could freeze

3. Use the paint and wax at room temperature and make sure the furniture piece you are painting is AT ROOM TEMPERATURE.

4. Make sure the lid is on tightly after using and do not leave the can open for extended periods of time if not using the paint. If the paint thickens too much because of this- you can add a LITTLE water using a teaspoon to control how much you add- and mix it to the consistency it was.

How many colors are available?

Well- that is an interesting question- because there are 29 base colors, but when you account for mixing and playing with variations of hues- you can think of it as 1,000′s.

What kind of finish does the paint have?

Without a protective coat, the paint has a very matte, chalky finish- but smooth to touch. The only time I haven’t added a protective finish has been on a couple of items that would receive very little wear and tear. I wanted to leave them with a very shabby chic look and let them distress even more naturally.

What kind of protective finish do you use?

I use Annie Sloan clear wax. It doesn’t change the paint color but intensifies it- deepens the hue. I also use Annie Sloan dark wax for a more antiqued look- and I approach this application with a plan. Prior to applying the dark wax- a clear wax coat is done. I usually do one – maybe two coats of wax, but for table tops where more protection or water resistance is definitely needed- three coats. AND ALL COATS ARE APPLIED lightly- wiping the excess with a rag.

To create more luster or shine, I use a soft cloth to buff the wax after it’s dried for about an hour.

Do you use a special brush for applying the wax?

Well, that depends. An OLD paint brush is fine. (don’t use a new one since the old ones that have worn bristles are best and once you apply wax to the bristles- you will not be using it again for paint) If you plan on doing more than one Annie Sloan Chalk Paint project- or a LARGE piece – you may want to consider a wax brush. They are not inexpensive- but make the wax application so much easier. They retail at $34.95 and will last forever! (as long as you take care of it) If you plan on doing a lot of furniture- you should have one for clear wax and one for dark. BUT again- if you have a tight budget – a work paint brush can also be used.

Do you do anything special to apply the wax?

Apply it lightly. Often in photos you see brushes with a heavy amount, but that is only because visually they needed a lot of wax for it to show up in the photo. Apply in light coats BUT push the wax into the paint. (does that make sense?) Work in small areas and lightly wipe off extra wax with a clean soft rag or towel. Let the wax dry till it is touchable and not tacky- usually about an hour. Then you can buff it with a clean – lint free rag. The more you buff- the smoother the finish will feel to the touch and shinier the effect. If you are applying multiple coats of wax…lightly rub out each coat- but only buff the last coat if you are going for a shinier finish.

I hope that this helps all of you.

Again- remember this paint is not to replace GLOSSY latex paint- if that is the finish you want- then that should be the paint that you use.

Call or email me – Trish at The Purple Painted Lady if you have any questions! All my contact information is on my HOME page and my Contact Me page. I am here to help you!

Thanks for reading!

Basic Suggestions for a 2 tone effect:

1. Choose a base coat. Often Old White or Cream. Use a two-inch brush. Apply lightly. Coat the whole piece, and don’t worry about total coverage. It’s okay if a bit of wood still shows since this is the first coat. Let dry for an hour or so.

2. Apply one thick coat of another color. A few favorites are Louis Blue, French Linen or Paris Gray. Wait an hour or so and then……apply a second coat. The wood should be totally covered.

3. Brush on a coat of Annie Sloan Clear Wax using the Ultimate Wax Brush. The piece will get darker and smoother, taking on a new look. Let dry at least 30 minutes so that the wax is no longer tacky to the touch. Then using sandpaper and Grade 3 steel wool (although Annie prefers NO wool), rub and distress it until it has an aged, worn look. Concentrate on corners, edges and legs, especially working over keyholes, finials, handles and carvings.

4. Brush on Annie Sloan Dark Wax. It is recommended to have a second wax brush as so to not contaminate the brush you always use for Clear wax. This wax gives a smooth, satin finish and highlights details. Be careful not to use too much Dark Wax because it can look sloppy….then use Grade 1 steel wool as the last step, to take off excess wax until you get the look you want. The end result will be a piece that looks old, special and one-of-a-kind, as if it was found at a Paris flea market.