Paint Your Washer & Dryer with Chalk Paint®

Use Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan to jazz up your old washer & dryer?

Absolutely!

Check out what Melissa’s Perfect Piece did!

Melissa The Purple Painted Lady Chalk Paint Washer Dryer Laundry Room painted

This almost makes doing laundry fun!

My suggestion for painting your washer and dryer would be to wipe down each with water.

Dry thoroughly.

Then paint with Chalk Paint®. Paint first coat and wait 24 hours, then do second coat.

Adding detail? Do it with Chalk Paint®.

Then, use the Artisan Enhancements Clear Finish as your top coat. It will work wonderfully.

And voila! You are done!

Melissa created this pretty pink custom color using Chalk Paint®. (Check out the paint mixing tool on our website to help with color mixing ideas!) => Click HERE

Looking for a site to order polka dot stencils from? Try Royal Design Studio!

The Purple Painted Lady (that’s me!) sells chalk paint® in three of her locations through out western NY and also- via her on-line store/website!

If you do not purchase through me…I hope you give us the opportunity to do business with you! We sell Chalk Paint at $34.95 per quart which is the lowest price I can legally sell it for based on the contract to be a distributor. I ship out every week day all over the US. We offer the lowest flat rate UPS shipping cost so if you are one town away or 10 states away- the shipping cost is the same. We ship same day if your order is placed before our daily UPS pick up. Also- it is my paint sales that keep me in business and allow me to be here to help you. (my shameless, but honest plug) Link to Our On-Line Store HERE.

: ) And I will be here to help you as you progress through your future project! And if I do say so myself- we offer the BEST customer service that you will ever experience!

Here is a little post about what I mean when it comes to customer service and what you should expect from us – click HERE.

Thanks so much!

Trish —

FREE Kitchen Cabinet Painting Question & Answer Seminar

Thinking about painting your kitchen cabinets?

Come to our Macedon location (77 Main Street, NY 14502) on Thursday, January 8th STARTING at 7pm till 9pm in Macedon, NY

If you are feeling:

* intimidated?
* Don’t want to mess it up?
* Want them to look beyond beautiful and professional?
Olive and Aubusson Blue cabinet

You should consider coming to our FREE Q&A session! Bring a cabinet door with you also!

Trish, The Purple Painted Lady will be sharing, from beginning to end – the process to follow when using Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan.

The class starts promptly at 7pm. We will not go back and revisit information- so please arrive on time.

Also- to gauge how many chairs we need- please give us a call at 585-750-6056 or email us takuntz@rochester.rr.com letting us know if you are coming.
Old Ochre Cabinet with name
Feel free to RSVP on Facebook if you are on Facebook. Click HERE for our Facebook Event for this seminar.

Kitchen Cabinet Stephanie Kapral MY CUSTOMER The Purple Painted Lady Chalk Paint

Memorial Day 2014 (Shop Schedule)

Happy Memorial Day Everyone.

For many- it is a day off. For me personally- I work 6 days a week- every week- but Sundays and Holidays are sacred to me. If I was to be brutally honest though- I guess what helps me to actually sit back and relax- is that neither UPS or Federal Express work those days. Striking a balance in life- is something I struggle with- always have.

This weekend I reflect on all of those men and women who made the greatest sacrifice of all- their lives. There have been various “Memorial Day’s” established throughout the last couple hundred years, but on May 26, 1966, President Johnson signed a presidential proclamation naming Waterloo, New York, as the birthplace of Memorial Day.

I live about an hour away- and I think we may go and visit the festivities happening there. On Memorial Day- I plan to visit my father’s grave and place flowers and a flag there for him. He served in the Korean War on a ship called the USS Perry.

HOLIDAY SHOP SCHEDULE:
The Purple Painted Lady will be CLOSED in Macedon and Syracuse on Sunday, May 25th and Monday, May 26th. UPS and FedX are off also, so all on-line orders will ship out on Tuesday, May 27th.

And speaking of orders and ….paint- I love how patriotic the colors of Emperor’s Silk, Pure White and Napoleonic Blue Chalk Paint® look! Many people often ask about the plastic paint storage bottles that I show the paint in. They contain a whole quart and have an easy dispenser on the top. If interested in purchasing one- visit HERE.

Happy Memorial Day Chalk Paint The purple painted lady

I hope that you and your family take time to sit back, reflect and relax.

Please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. $34.95 per quart, low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day!

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Duck Egg Blue Chalk Paint®- is it a blue or is it green?

What about Duck Egg Blue Chalk Paint®?! Is it a blue or is it a green?

I guess you can say the answer to the question is, yes to both! It is a soft greenish blue.

Click HERE to visit our shopping cart if interested in purchasing.

Duck Egg Blue Sample Board Annie Sloan Chalk Paint  The Purple Painted Lady

The other day I wrote a little feature about Annie Sloan’s “Blue” Chalk Paint colors. I included Napoleonic Blue, Aubusson Blue, Louis Blue and even Old Violet. (You can read about it HERE) However, I left out the color Duck Egg Blue and boy, oh boy …. many of you were disappointed, to say the least! But that is because Duck Egg deserves a post all to itself! So…here it is!

First, I must share with you that I am one of the biggest fans of Duck Egg Blue. In fact- I have to consciously remind myself to not paint everything with this color because I love it that much!

Louis Blue Duck Egg Blue The Purple Painted Lady Comparison
Duck Egg Provence Comparison sample board  The Purple Painted Lady
Duck Egg Blue with Green Olive Versailles Chateau Comparison Sample Boards Labeled The Purple Painted Lady Chalk Paint

Duck Egg Blue is very easy on the eyes, and plays well with so many existing colors you may have in a room already. Not to mention that it has amazing color “stain blocking” coverage! I wrote a post a couple years ago on how I used it over a dining table that had a huge burn mark on it. (Just have to add, that I got the table free) When I applied the first coat of Duck Egg Blue – it covered the entire burn mark. No bleeding or show through after one solid coat of Duck Egg. It was very impressive. And at that moment, I learned how Duck Egg Blue was much more than “just a pretty face” of a color!

Slide2Slide3

So, yes….Duck Egg Blue is a beautiful color! All of Annie’s colors are, but this one is even more special.

DESCRIPTION:

It has the ability to complement many different interiors and colors. It is a greenish soft blue. Annie says it is reminiscent of Rococo French and Swedish interiors. It looks wonderful and fresh with Old White. We also love it distressed when it is used over Chateau Grey. When you apply dark wax over it- it tones down the any of the blue hue there- and brings out more of the sage/green in it. It is “a must have” add to your suite of colors if you love French Country. Pair it with Arles, add some Dark Wax and you have a killer combination! Or, partner Duck Egg Blue with any of Annie’s reds and be prepared to be blown away! For example, check out the sample board below with Duck Egg Blue over the Chalk Paint® color called Primer Red. This piece has a dark wax glaze added, which tones down the Duck Egg Blue.

Duck Egg over Primer Red

So, why did I not include it in my post about Annie Sloan’s “blues?”

At my shop, I have pieces of 15 inch long crown molding painted in each of the Chalk Paint® colors. Customers can hold the sample boards, move them around next to other colors to see how they look and pair, they also can take them outside to see the color in natural sunlight versus just the overhead lights in my shop. This way they can see the true color and the difference of how it looks pending on lighting. I love how these sample boards all look spread across an old Hoosier cabinet base. And I think they are a wonderful way for my customers to really get a good feeling of what the color truly is.

The Purple Painted Lady Sample Board Spread

In this sample board spectrum, I have “Duck Egg Blue” paired near the “greens.” It just seems to blend better near the Olive, Chateau Grey and Versailles colors to its left and Provence and Florence to its right.

Duck Egg Blue on top of provence Olive chateau grey Sample boards Chalk Paint The Purple Painted Lady

Louis Blue Duck Egg Blue Greek Blue The Purple Painted Lady Comparison

Shops on west ridge BASICS The purple Painted Lady Lisa Duck eggPicMonkey Collage

Mermaid dresser with mermaid statue

I must be a mermaid sanding post

Please visit our website if interested in ordering Chalk Paint®. $34.95 per quart, low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day!

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Differences Between Annie Sloan’s “Blue” Chalk Paint® Colors

Differences Between Annie Sloan’s Chalk Paint® “Blue” Colors

So, which “Blue” Chalk Paint® Should I Get???
If you order paint on-line, it can be a bit intimidating since colors may look differently on your monitor (especially depending on the quality of it.) I receive many questions about the differences between the “blue” colors in the Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan family. (Napoleonic Blue, Aubusson Blue, Greek Blue, Louis Blue, Old Violet) That is because depending on the amount of light shining on a piece when a photo was taken – will influence how the color appears. When purchasing paint on-line- always look at a few examples of it and feel free to contact The Purple Painted Lady and ask questions prior to buying.

Blue The Purple Painted Lady Comparison landscape

Napoleonic Blue = A deep true blue that is the color of fresh picked blueberries- perfect for creating the Union Jack flag! More like the color of navy.
Napoleonice Blue Sample Board
Annie sloan Union Jack Armoire close up

Aubusson Blue = is named and designed after the beautiful deep grey blue found on the classic 18th and 19th century Aubusson rugs from France. It is an elegant color that works well with many colors as it is a dark neutral but in particular it works with Paris Grey. It is also a color found in Scandinavian painted furniture. In my opinion (The Purple Painted Lady), Aubusson Blue is a wonderful Americana, traditional color. I love the way it looks over the color Olive.

Olive and Aubusson Blue cabinet

Greek Blue = Annie Sloan’s Greek Blue is a warm blue without any green in it. It is a color found throughout the Mediterranean. To The Purple Painted Lady- it is more like an electric blue, but NOT a neon blue. It has a slight periwinkle feel to it- but is definitely more of a blue.

Greek Blue Sample Board

Louis Blue = This is a pretty pastel blue. Soft, but yet, does not scream baby nursery. A beautiful light sky blue.
Louis Blue Sample
Louis Blue Old White Hutch base painted

Old Violet = Annie describes this like deep Parma violets or blue lavender. In my opinion (The Purple Painted Lady) the color has a periwinkle feel to it- which I love. When I paint this on a piece and distress a lot, it also reminds me of worn denim faded jeans.

Old Violet Sample Board
Old Violet Wax Glaze Worn Denim

Visit our website to order if interested. $34.95 per quart, low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day!

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & MMS Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR
77 Main street with phone number

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Difference Between Annie Sloan’s “White” Chalk Paint® Colors

Which “White” Chalk Paint® Should I get???

If you order paint on-line, it can be a bit intimidating since colors may look differently on your monitor. This can be due to either:

1. the quality of your monitor
OR
2. the quality of the camera and lighting of who took the photo!

So, I admit- I have yet to invest in an expensive camera. I use my “smart phone” to take photos. Compared to basic cameras purchased just 5 years ago- smartphones take higher resolution and better photos. But- truly- they are still not good enough. So, with that said- I would like to write a description of the colors below. Some of the information is my opinion, and some is based on how Annie Sloan herself describes the color.

I receive a lot of questions about the differences between the colors of Pure White, Old White and Cream Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan.

White differences The Purple Painted Lady Old Ochre Old White Pure White Cream 2

I describe the colors as:

Pure White = The color of a piece of white paper. Literally- plain old note paper. White…clean white. It is WHITE.
: )
Pure White Sample Board

Old White = the color of bisque pottery before being painted. It is a soft white, but can have a very, very slight yellow hue if placed near other items that are yellow. Annie says it is the color of chalk and gesso, a soft white without pink or yellow in it. Of all the other paint colors we sell collectively at The Purple Painted Lady- we sell that same amount (if not more) in just Old White. It is the number one selling color in our shops, on-line and any furniture we paint in Old White sells immediately!
Old White Sample Board

Cream = Think French Vanilla Ice Cream! Seriously- open a container of French Vanilla Ice Cream- and this is what I see. It has a vanilla hue to it. THIS IS A SOFT BUTTERY cream…definitely has a yellow hue to it. This is a traditional “cream.”
Cream Sample Board with both Clear and Dark Wax

And since we are doing neutrals- let’s talk about Old Ochre. This is more like a very light khaki, or …. unbleached muslin.
Old Ochre Sample Board

Visit our website to order if interested. $34.95 per quart, low/flat rate shipping and it always ships same day!

In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & MMS Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 1 West Genesee Street, Baldwinsville, NY 13027
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

Sanding Chalk Paint® Before OR After Waxing?

The question to sand and distress Chalk Paint® before versus after applying clear wax is a very common question. I asked it too, when I first started using Annie Sloan products. So, I hope this small post about this cute dresser helps you.

I love the combination of Versailles, Antoinette and Old White Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan.

Versailles Sample Board

Antoinette Sample Board

Old White Sample Board

I decided to use them all on a vintage dresser we are painting. Although I did mix a little Old White & Pure White into the Antoinette to soften the pink even more.

Versailles Antoinette dresser The Purple Painted Lady close up

Once the was all dry, I grabbed a “Medium to fine” sanding block because I wanted to soften the look of paint and give the piece a weathered/worn look.

The question many ask- is should I distress a piece before or after applying clear wax?

Personally, I like to sand Chalk Paint® before waxing. The reason I prefer that, is to me- it is less effort. I typically will sand using 200 or 220 grit sandpaper or sand sponge. I never use a power sander. I like to “feel” the piece and it does not take much effort (muscle power) at all to do this step. I like how the Chalk Paint® is polished and the end result, is a silky smooth surface.

Another reason I prefer to sand before applying clear wax, is that often- for pieces I am keeping in my one home, I usually only apply one coat of wax (two on the top though.) So, because I only apply one coat of wax over the sides of the dresser and drawers- I do not want to sand that one coat off- which will mean I need to apply another coat of wax.

For pieces that we sell at my shop though, I always do a minimum of 2 coats of wax since I do not know how the piece will be treated once it is sold. (I sometimes say there are people who use furniture, and then there are people who abuse furniture.)

Now- if you sand before applying a coat of wax- keep in mind- it will create more dust.

See how much is on my shop floor?

Versailles Antoinette dresser The Purple Painted Lady with dust

So, because of this I strongly recommend that you use a drop cloth at home because if you try to mop up that PAINT DUST, guess what you will create? …Yep, you guessed it, a beautiful wash all over your floor. So, don’t do that!

Again, since I sometimes like to apply one coat of wax- so I do not like to distress once it is on.

Now with that all shared, I will still sometimes take some triple zero steel wool and rub that over a finished piece that has been waxed. This changes the sheen of the waxed surface to more of a high sheen and it will feel smooth as glass.

I also like to use a sand block or sand paper to remove paint that accidentally gets onto a spot that it should not be. For example, on the top of a drawer or side of a drawer.

The Purple Painted Lady Versailles Antoinette sanding block drawer BEFOREThe Purple Painted Lady Versailles Antoinette sanding block drawer AFTER 2

The Purple Painted Lady sells Chalk Paint® on-line and we always ship same day! In fact- there are many reasons we think buying through us is the best. Read THIS little post about what sets The Purple Painted Lady apart from the rest.

To visit our on-line store- click HERE.

Lastly, we share a lot more information to help you get the most functionality out of your Chalk Paint® on our Facebook page. Consider checking it out by clicking HERE. While there- kindly consider LIKING us.

Thanks again,
Tricia Migliore Kuntz ~The Purple Painted Lady ~
Design/Consulting, Kitchen Cabinet Refurbishing, Custom Painted Furniture, Chalk Paint® & MMS Milk Paint Retailer & herRochester Blogger

PHONE: 585-750-6056

Come visit us:

At our MAIN STORE at 77 West Main Street in Macedon, NY 14502 OR

3200 West Ridge Road in Rochester, NY 14626 (The Shops On West Ridge) OR

Our Syracuse, NY location at 2017 Milton Avenue in Solvay, NY 13209
Click HERE for Store hours and information.

PicMonkey Collage The Purple Painted Lady Sandinf Block sponge drawer clean chalk paint

A little Bourbon anyone?

A little Bourbon anyone?

My current project that I am working on…… and I love it. I hope someone out there will too and hopefully purchase it!

This dresser is painted in Graphite and Pure White Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan.

I am very excited about it- and I had to share it. Once I was done with the detailing – I planned on making it look a bit worn by sanding the surface strategically with some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper.

Here is a helpful tip for when you paint a dresser front…once you have the lay out done, feel free to remove the drawer and set it to make the painting easier!

Also, don’t panic if when using Chalk Paint™ and prior to waxing you get a light scuff mark, like what I am pointing at in the photo below. When you apply Annie’s Clear Wax that all disappears. But note, I am not referring to scratches or gouges.

Always have a copy of the image you are painting near by to reference. In the photo below you can see how I like to tape mine using Painter’s Tape to the piece so I can easily reference it at all times. I learned this when I primarily only painted murals. I would tape 4 copies of what I was painting above, below and on both sides of the area I was painting on the wall. This does really help a lot!


For the knobs I am thinking will by a glossy black of some sort. (I think)

Now after painting the detailing on, my next step is to lightly sand the surface to even out the paint. There are pros & cons to sanding or distressing BEFORE applying your first coat of Clear Wax. I typically sand BEFORE and will explain why in this post later today below.

Something I wanted to share now though, is that when you sand prior to waxing over a dark Chalk Paint™ color like Graphite (as I have in my photo below)…you will get this residual white chalky look. Don’t panic!

What I do to remove this “chalky effect” is GENTLY blow and wipe with a DRY towel as much of it off. (don’t use a moist towel since that powder are tiny particles of chalk paint and the water will reactivate it into a “wash.”) Do not be concern with removing it so it is all gone! First, you will not be able to. Secondly, it is not necessary because as soon as I apply the clear wax…all of that disappears. The photo below shows what the front looks like after applying clear wax to the top drawer. Notice, that white chalky residue or scratch look goes away on it!

When painting or waxing – place your piece up on blocks so that it easy to get right to the bottom of the feet without dirtying your floor.

Once done applying the wax (and please reference my video here if you need wax application instructions.) But after I applied the wax and removed the residual wax per my instructions, I gently buffed out the surface. The photo below is after I am done with all of this.

I ended up painting the inside of the drawers with Napoleonic Blue and waxed them. The only thing left is to add some black enamel knobs. I couldn’t wait to get it into the window though, so here it is….ready for sale! I hope you like it. It comes with my girlfriend Jeanne’s Bourbon Slushie recipe! Perfect for the holidays.

I will post a final photo when finish! (and don’t worry…I have something in the works that I will reveal soon to show you exactly how I do this!!!!!) Something that will be available to you via my on-line store.

Questions Often Asked About Chalk Paint™

Chalk Paint™ Questions and hopefully……Answers

What is Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan?

Chalk Paint™ is an incredible product specifically designed for furniture, and it can be used on walls and in painting leather couches, vinyl chairs, outside of tubs, refrigerators, and exterior surfaces such as doors and shudders (like on The Purple Painted Lady’s Palmyra store.). It is a water soluble paint (meaning a major component of Chalk Paint™) is water. So, when you think of a product being GREEN…think Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan!

Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan is also highly pigmented material that is made with little or no black. This is excellent when mixing colors since the end result will be true to hue and not muddy. Annie created it to produce an old-world, European look- but Chalk Paint™ has so much more versatility!

I don’t want my piece to be primitive or distressed- so I guess Chalk Paint™ is not for me.

Oh my- that is far from the truth! Chalk Paint™ is not a one dimensional paint! You can create many types of finishes and the paint has an incredible about of functionality within one quart. Want to create a textured surface? No problem. Want to create a super smooth surface? No problem. Want to sand your piece and get that shabby – French Country feel? No problem. But oh- you want to create a piece that will look perfectly cohesive in your modern home? NO PROBLEM! Chalk Paint™ is perfect also when you want to add depth and character versus just a plastic feeling, one dimensional surface. And it can be used to accommodate any design decor ranging from Mid-Century Modern, Contemporary to french Country, to Primitive. Your color choices and preference of how you “finish” your piece will influence what design style it will be.

Annie Sloan – being a fine artist herself, created her Chalk Paint™ based on her knowledge of paint, pigments and art history. Annie created Chalk Paint™ over 20 years ago, and in the last two decades, her Chalk Paint™ has been pushed and tested beyond probably what either you or I could imagine! So, when it comes to feeling secure in your decision to use Chalk Paint™ – know that you are not a beta test!

As for when it became available here in the US, although the paint was created over 20 years ago- it was around 2010 when Lisa Rickert – who is the proprietress of Annie Sloan Unfolded imported to use on her home in New Orleans.

What are the qualities that make Chalk Paint™ superior?

With Chalk Paint™ there is:

No Stripping

No Sanding

No Priming

and I often add……No kidding!

When you paint with latex paint – you must strip, sand and always prime! That requires a significant amount of your time and money when it comes to buying the materials to do this. Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan allows you to create a beautiful finished piece without doing all the extra work of stripping, sanding, and priming prior to painting and without sacrificing the quality. In fact- you are using a product that rivals any high end finish- and in fact- will be superior to it! The colors are beautiful, and are inspired from 18th Century European furniture. Chalk Paint™ is water soluble and has extremely low VOC’s. Due to this – it is considered a “kind” paint by Annie and virtually has no odor to it. One of The Purple Painted Lady’s Retail Partners, Blue Sky Design in Buffalo, NY only sells green building materials. And Blue Sky Design has chosen to include Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan to their suite of products! It is safe for you and the environment. <br

Ok- it states above “No Stripping, No Sanding or Priming” but you don’t believe it!
If you read this page from the beginning you realize- that I already stated this! But whenever I am doing a Home Show or festival- I will repeat this mantra over and over again. Only to have someone then immediately ask after listening, “so do I have to sand?” I know that this concept is difficult to believe- but the proof is in the pudding. So, YES!!!! Chalk Paint™ was designed to be very easy to use and it adheres to almost any surface including wood, concrete, walls, leather coaches, vinyl, washer & dryers, porcelain bathtubs …so just about anything! It can be used both outside and in. (But remember when using it for outdoor applications do NOT use wax.

Also, something amazing about Chalk Paint™- is that it provides 50% more coverage in regards to square feet of painting compared to latex.

Wax Top Coat? Why would I use wax versus polyurethane?

Chalk Paint™ is very porous and the wax will penetrate the paint and literally fuse with it making it very strong. Waxing the paint provides protection. Chalk Paint™ in nature- is a very flat chalky finish and over time could be effected by oils from your skin, stains from beverages, dirty fingertips. They can permanently stain the paint. The wax finish is what seals and protects your piece. This is a bit of a crude analogy, but if you have ever replaced the commode (toilet) in your bathroom, before placing the new commode down on the top of the sewer pipe, a thick wax ring is placed. And then, the commode goes on top of that and pressure is applied to “squish” the wax and seal it. Wax is used in many applications to protect materials. A perfect example of this is when we wax our cars.

Why should I use Annie Sloan waxes?

First off, Annie Sloan developed her waxes specifically for her Chalk Paint™ line. The wax is very smooth, like soft margarine or if you are in the south- Crisco! It is easy to use and contains very little odor. It does not contain harsh chemical solvents like quick drying agents so you are not breathing harsh chemicals into your lungs. Also, we have actually heard of other brands of waxes that have removed the paint right off the piece and can stain the paint. Annie Sloan waxes are guaranteed to work with her Chalk Paint™. And guess what- if later in life- you want to change the color of your piece- Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan goes directly over Annie Sloan Wax without sanding or priming!


I have never used wax before, how do I use it?
  Keep reading this post but also watch my video by clicking HERE!

If you are new to waxes, it does take a little bit of getting used to, but it really is easy. The most common mistake people make is to use too much. ? If all you take away from what I say and do is this…you will be ok! SO….take note …we are not icing a cake! We are waxing furniture. So, very thin – uniform coats are best. If that is all that you remember from this hand out- you should be ok! Just like when you put moisturizer on your skin- you do not put a thick coat on, but rather a THIN coat and rub it in- so that it will be absorbed into your skin. OR when you use hair conditioner…you apply it and the do what? Rinse it off. That is because your hair will absorb what it needs. Annie’s Chalk Paint will do the same thing in regards to the wax!
CLEAR WAX- this is how I use it:
1. I take a plastic spoon and a paper plate. Using the backside of the spoon- I take a good tablespoon amount of wax out of the tin and put it on the paper plate. (Place the cover back on the tin of wax until you need more)

2. I use my wax brush and pull some of the wax from the glob (for lack of better words.) Only the tips of your wax brush should have wax on them- and not a lot!!!! A little goes a long way! Again- you are not icing a cake where you want a generous amount of thickness. We are applying the wax very thin- pressing uniformly with steady pressure- but not so much that you are bending the bristles on the wax brush. I like to use the analogy that this is similar to waxing your car…you apply the wax- BUT NOT SO MUCH that when it is time to wipe it off or buff- you need a power tool to do it! So- apply a thin layer of wax and GET IT IN THE GROOVES OF THE PAINT.

3. DIRECTION TO APPLY WAX For most pieces (except when going for that Rustic look or when you have a textured piece) I usually apply the wax in the same direction as my painted brush strokes. Or- if I use a circular motion- I still ALWAYS finish with a few clean straight finishing strokes in the direction I painted. If I was doing a dresser top- I would start at the back reaching across while standing in front of the piece and as I apply the Annie Sloan wax – I work my way toward the front as so I don’t lean into a previously waxed area. You will see where you waxed prior because it does deepen the hue of the paint a slight amount but be aware of where you just waxed, and overlap slightly as you begin your next section.

4. After a few strokes from one side to the other with the wax brush- I will notice when the wax is not covering as much- that is my queue I need more wax. But first….using a lint free cotton t-shirt (an old one from my husband or an old sheet) and I wipe off the residual wax with one or two strokes in the same direction as I just waxed. (I am not buffing the wax at this stage! Merely just removing or incorporating any small wax “crumbs” that may be present.) Again- just one or two uniformed swipes across the whole area in one sweep – and that is it.

5. Resume waxing the next area- I wax strategically – meaning in an organized direction so I do not miss a spot.

6. The wax will dry (meaning no longer be tacky to the touch within a short time….maybe an hour or two?) However a variable in the dry time is the temperature and humidity where you are located. Is it is humid and cooler- cure time will be longer. If it is taking a long time and your wax is still tacky and you are not in the rain forest- reread my warnings above regarding applying the wax thin!

Depending on the piece I am finishing- I may have different amounts of wax coats. For instance…..a dresser. I may have 2 – 3 coats of wax on the top, but only 1 coat of wax on the sides and front. 7. Once the piece is no longer tacky- if you want to have a shinier finish- buff your piece. If you like it as is- then you are done! It does not take much rubbing and the piece will be quite shiny- so pay attention and have good lighting so that you do not over do it.
8. Remember NO WAX when painting pieces for outside.
9. Surfaces that will get serious use (wear and tear) like tops of dressers and tables – should receive 2 to 3 coats of wax. Follow the procedure above – always allow wax to dry between additional coats.
I will always lead my customers on a path to get the best value from their purchase. If a person walks in and is describing an application where another product would be better- I let them know! Now when it comes to tools- in the sense of brushes – I strongly believe that wax brush is a necessary purchase if you plan on doing multiple pieces. I understand that they are not inexpensive, but if you maintain them- they will last forever and will make your waxing process much faster and from a cosmetic perspective- will significantly improve your application! I always say- this is similar to applying make up. I honestly don’t think the applicator you choose for putting on eye shadow is a big deal- but try putting blush on with a skinny brush versus a nice big soft brush and you are going to look ridiculous. Invest in a wax brush and get a professional quality finish. You will not regret it.

WHY IS WAX IMPORTANT?
The wax is important to protect the paint – like polyurethane does when using Latex. Also – in regards to water protection, especially in kitchens and bathrooms. In that case- you need something made from wax and or oil….ie.oil and water don’t mix. (and not to be too odd here- that is why when you install a new toilet- they set the piece on a very THICK wax ring) I have tested waxes that are water based and they just don’t work as they come off when you wipe them with a cloth! Petroleum wax, also known as paraffin wax, is a by-product of the petrochemical industry…it is a residual from another manufacturing process. Annie Sloan Wax upcycles… in that the petroleum by-product is used in our wax versus of it being disposed. It is a good and economical base for Annie Sloan’s wax and besides that- there is also bees wax (which comes from bees!) added to make it soft and carnauba wax (from a plant) to make it very water repellent. The paint because of its particular structure allows the wax to soak in- like quality skin lotion will on your body. This is why Chalk Paint and Annie Sloan waxes marry each other perfectly- they were created to do so and no other mixing of products will produce the same results.
Ideally- I do recommend a wax brush and that is because when you apply wax with a rag- often you will get uneven application. Why is that? To help you understand- take your two hands and press them together like you are praying. (go ahead and do it- no one is watching!) Pay attention to where the pressure is when you push your hands together. It is in the cushy part of your palm and at your fingertips…but not under your knuckles. Now you understand why people get peaks and valleys when using a rag. If you can afford a wax brush- I strongly recommend using one. You will get a much better even level of wax. So, with all that said, brush or wipe your clear wax on. I typically apply the wax in the same direction I applied the paint or taking my brush and making small circles. I do this strategically – starting at one end and working my way across the piece. I apply the wax in sections and rub off the excess before starting a new section. I typically use a lint free old white t-shirt or rags that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot. And sometimes- I use cheesecloth to wipe off the excess wax. Once the clear wax has cured…..you can then accent areas with dark wax if you would like to, wiping off as you go. Wait until it is no longer tacky (usually a couple of hours or less) and buff to desired sheen. Wait 24 hours in between adding more layers of clear wax if you are building up a for a stronger finish. As for the application- I like to use the analogy of hair conditioner. When you wash your hair- you put on conditioner after the shampoo. And then what do you do? Immediately wash it all off! Why is that? Because your hair will absorb only what it needs and we rinse the rest away! Imagine leaving the conditioner on your hair with out washing it off- what would happen? You definitely won’t have a “Good Hair Day!”, that’s for sure!

Why do I need to wax it before I sand, that seems backwards?

When it comes to sanding the paint prior to wax to make the surface smoother- that is fine. I often do that and almost always distress with sand paper prior to waxing. (but keep reading to understand the pros vs cons on this!)

The only caveat to be aware of when sanding your painted surface – is that sometimes people will over sand- and begin polishing and burnishing their paint. They are breaking down the surface tension, compact the paint down, – making the paint very hard versus being porous. When you do this- the wax may not be able to be absorbed uniformly into the normally – porous chalk paint- and you run the risk of streaks where the wax is not absorbed well. As long as you have a handle on this and understand at what point you begin to temper the paint – then sanding prior to waxing is totally fine!!!

Why do I need to wax my piece before I distress, that seems backwards?

Annie Sloan recommends to distress after waxing….. As an Annie Sloan stockist we are obligated to promote that on behalf of Annie. But first – let’s clarify…you apply Annie Sloan’s Clear Wax, immediately wipe off the residual and then let cure….once the wax is dry- then you distress.

Ok- here are some of the reasons Annie prefers this hierarchy to approach distressing. so first….by distressing AFTER you applied wax it actually gives you a lot more control when you are sanding since it allows you to expose layers of paint or wood underneath gradually. Meaning- it is a bit of a safeguard if you are new to this type of painting. This is how you recreate that natural look of furniture that has been painted layer by layer over the years.

Another reason is that the paint is, well, chalky. It can be very messy when distressing if not waxed prior! By waxing it first, you really cut down on the dust made when sanding which is important if doing a piece in your home. Much more convenient than having to move it out- or perhaps it is a large hutch and you do not have enough muscle to move it.

Another reason to use clear wax first is that it will protect your paint from the dark wax- if you plan on “aging” your piece. The dark wax will actually stain the paint color. Now- you may want that actual effect- and if that is the case do a test spot on the back of your piece. Otherwise- apply a coat of clear wax and let cure…..then add your dark wax. But keep in mind- having a few layers of wax- especially on cabinets or the top of the dresser is important for protection!

As for me at my shop though, I typically will distress before applying my first coat of clear wax. (I know that is the opposite of what I just wrote above though) I distress before waxing since since less elbow grease is necessary. And since I paint a lot of pieces- this does help me. It does create a bit more dust to accumulate at the base of the piece I am working on- but I manage that fine.

So- now you know there is no correct answer to your question. : )


Why do I need to use clear wax first if I want a rustic, antique look ….shouldn’t I just use the dark wax?

Excellent question, we get this one a lot! First off, please know that the dark wax goes a LONG way, you need very little of it. Let me stress that- you need very little. The reason you clear wax first is that it will protect your paint color and it adds additional layers of protection.

As for the dark wax- it has a stain in it and can permanently stain your paint color if the barrier of clear wax is not there. When you apply clear wax first & let cure, then dark wax, you can control how much dark wax is applied and where it goes. If you just use dark wax first, where you apply it is exactly where it goes. That is it, and that is where it stays, darkened paint and all!However- sometimes I want a piece to be very dark- so in that case- I make the choice to Dark Wax without a applying a clear wax layer prior.

Dark Wax is not meant to be used where you apply 2 or 3 coats of it. It is one of the final steps you do to a piece. Kind of like adding decorative roses on the top of a Birthday Cake. You don’t add roses than add an additional layer of frosting over them.

My piece is way too dark I used too much Dark Wax! Now what? (How to remove Dark Wax)

I actually did this on this piece shown. I liked how the dark wax looked on the body of the dresser, but not on the top.

If you applied a base of clear wax first and have let it cure before applying the dark wax, you can actually use more clear wax as a “magic eraser.” Just get some clear wax onto a rag and use it to remove the dark wax. Wipe in the same motion as you applied the Dark Wax.

If you did not use clear wax first (like my example shown in the photo), or the dark wax has dried completely and cured, don’t worry! First try a rag with a little mineral spirits on it. It should be damp but not dripping! I like to use “real” Mineral Spirits..meaning not the “green” Mineral Spirits that has a milky white appearance. I just don’t feel it works nearly as well as the original Mineral Spirits. With a bit of Mineral Spirits on your rag, rub the piece in the direction you applied the wax. (Meaning- do not going against the grain) The mineral spirits on the rag will remove some of the Dark Wax- but it won’t restore the piece as it was before you applied the Dark Wax. For me- in regards to this dresser shown- that was just fine and I loved the look I got. However, if this was not what you had intended….you have a little more work, but all is not lost. With chalk paint, you can simply paint right over the wax and start again. No extra prep work needed. Just make sure the dark Wax has dried! You cannot repaint over freshly applied wax…clear or dark! That is like walking on quick sand- ..not good!

My wax is still tacky and will not dry, WHY?

Again, the most common mistake I have found with calls I receive is that people have applied too much wax and are not wiping off the excess.

If you are thinking, “I applied the wax days ago and it is still tacky”- that is a sure sign you have too much wax!

The Purple Painted Lady will provide a hands on waxing demo if it will help you since an educated customer- is a prepared customer!

The Purple Painted Lady always recommends to apply wax with a wax brush (as explained above) and wipe off the excess! You cannot take too much wax off- but you do not want to be buffing your piece during this step either. When waxing- it is important to remember this:

We are not icing a cake! We are waxing furniture. So, very thin – uniform coats are best. If that is all that you remember from this hand out- you should be ok! Just like when you put moisturizer on your skin- you do not put a thick coat on, but rather a THIN coat and rub it in- so that it will be absorbed into your skin. OR when you use hair conditioner…you apply it and the do what? Rinse it off. That is because your hair will absorb what it needs. Annie’s Chalk Paint will do the same thing in regards to the wax! If you start buffing and find that your wax is still tacky, wait until it is no longer tacky to start buffing.

I would like a smoother finish. Mine has brush strokes on the surface.

If you have brush strokes in your paint and you do not like the look them – before applying your wax top coat…consider sanding your surface with some 220 or 400 grit sandpaper. Just enough to polish the surface and knock down the surface tension from the brush strokes. Also- something to consider is on your second coat…or final coat of paint…sometimes I will thin the paint by placing only a ¼ inch of water in a plastic cup. I dip the tips of my paint brush in the SMALL AMOUNT of water and then dip the tips of the brush into the quart of the paint. I am not gobbing my brush with paint here. This extra bit of water allows the paint to be a little thinner and smoother and it will glide on easier. And an end result, is a smoother finish.

Another option is using a kitchen cabinet sponge roller. I like the 4″ Whizz rollers and sell them at my shop. The roller will allow you to apply thin coats of paint.

Since Annie Sloan created Chalk Paint™ based on a desire to reproduce European charm. Depth and texture is key to the paint, making it more authentic. If, however, you would like a traditional super smooth finish, use a sponge roller to apply the paint. If that is not smooth enough, sand the surface prior to waxing with a sanding block sponge or sand paper- perhaps a 220 grit or a little higher. Or- on my “How To” page I reference using “auto body” grade sandpaper! This stuff is amazing! Use it before the wax is applied to remove some of the “ridges” left from the brush strokes.

In regards to the surface based on application, if you are more of a seasoned furniture painter, you can also use Chalk Paint™ with a paint sprayer, but you will need to thin out the paint with water to get the right viscosity.

What does it mean if the wax stays “soft” showing indentations or impressions based on placing something on top??

As with any product, it needs time to cure! But this also can mean you have too much wax on your piece!!! While Annie Sloan products are very quick and easy to use, they do need time to cure and set up- this is beyond dry time. Many factors effect the curing time (temperature, humidity, how much wax was used, etc). But if there has been adequate “curing time” …and your wax is still tacky- that is a good indication you used too much wax.
If you do have too much wax- First try a rag with a little mineral spirits on it. It should be damp but not dripping! I like to use “real” Mineral Spirits..meaning not the “green” Mineral Spirits that has a milky white appearance. I just don’t feel it works nearly as well as the original Mineral Spirits. Take your rag and place it on the opening of the Mineral Spirits. Flip the container a couple of times in different areas of the rag. (Think like how you would put nail polish remover onto a cotton swab or ball!) With a tiny bit of Mineral Spirits on your rag, rub the piece in the direction you applied the wax. This is primarily important if you applied your wax in strokes and not a circular motion. The mineral spirits on the rag will remove some of the Dark Wax OR Clear Wax – but it won’t restore the piece as it was before you applied the Wax. Worse case scenario- with chalk paint, you can simply paint right over the wax and start again. But try to avoid this and wasting your product and note that you cannot repaint over freshly applied wax…clear or dark! That is like walking on quick sand- ..not good.

I am having trouble with the under color or stain bleeding through.

Most surfaces can be covered with one coat of Chalk Paint, occasionally two is necessary. Annie likes to say that it takes one and a half coats of paint. (read my “How To” page to learn more about that technique) With that said, some pieces of furniture can be difficult to accept for any type of paint! Bleed through can occur on pieces that have been polished with oil-based polishes that include a stain like “Old English” or deep red pieces that have a mahogany stain. If bleed through is really a problem, we recommend you go back and use Zinsser Shellac! I have a whole post on my “How To” page regarding this stuff. I LOVE IT! This will act as a barrier and seal from bleeding through the paint. It will prevent water stains from bleeding through. It will help when you have a piece that smells! Seriously- if it has a musty smell or smells like cigarette smoke. Coat the whole piece using Zinsser and it will “trap” those foul smells in- and you won’t have any more issues! After the Zinsser Shellac is dry, which takes whole 5 – 8 minutes ….simply begin painting right over it! This tip also applies to when you are painting with Old White or Pure White over a dark piece. As soon as you realize- that you have bleed through- grab the Zinsser. But first- finish painting the surface you started otherwise you run the risk of seeing a “lines” or where you stopped painting. Again…. **GO TO MY “HOW TO” PAGE AND READ MY POST ON SPRAY SHELLAC. I THINK OF IT AS A MIRACLE IN A CAN) When using spray shellac- apply it to the whole piece or side- not just a spot fix! You will actually see that when you paint. TRUST ME ON THAT! Using shellac will also help if the piece stinks! Yes- I said it…the piece smells. Perhaps it was in a basement or in the home of a heavy smoker….shellac seals in whatever you do not want to smell anymore! Can you tell I love this stuff?

I want to paint my Kitchen Cabinets with Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan.

As shown in Kitchen 2012 magazine- Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan is suggested as being the hottest paint in the DIY Blogosphere!

The Purple Painted Lady is a strategic partner with Sunny Days Painting in Rochester, New York! Painting kitchen cabinets is something we do superior together. From our experience it is best to paint kitchen cabinets using at least 2 coats of paint. Again- depending on the finish you desire, you can brush or roll. (even spray if you have the capabilities) Most of our jobs are brushed or rolled)

After painting, apply your was top coat- just like you would on a dresser. The only thing additional is that when it comes to the wear and tear a kitchen endures- if you actually cook that is…. you will want to apply two or three coats of wax to seal it. Annie’s wax is water repellent and strong and basically becomes one with the Chalk Paint™.

You may need to re-wax your cabinets in a few years based on the usage, but overall, a periodic buffing should be more than adequate to maintain a superior finish. To clean your cabinets (or furniture) just use a damp cloth to clean. Lisa Rickert has children and a dog and puts her cabinets through some serious testing… and Annie has pieces that were waxed over 10 years ago in her home.

With cabinets- depending on the age of them and the style- you may want to do a test on one regarding coverage and verify that the stain does not bleed through. If you find that the stain on the doors bleeds through your paint, please reference my site here regarding my post on Zinsser Shellac. It is on my How To page.

Would I have to strip this chair before using Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan?

I have painted chairs that were in much worse condition than that and did NOT strip. The most important part is to remove any serious loose paint. So, perhaps you may want to lightly sand the area where all the paint is chipped off in this photo. Also- – paint picks up the profile of what is already existing on the foundation. So- if you do not want it to be potentially “pocketed” or uneven due to the existing chipping- you should lightly sand that area.

Lastly- what is the price for Chalk Paint™ relative to using Latex?

The Purple Painted Lady has been painting furniture for over 10 years. In the past when I used Latex paint- I always sanded (which = $ & time), then using a tact cloth to clean what I just sanded ($ & time.) Once done with those two steps- the piece would be primed ($ & time) and then the piece would be base coated and then- finally painted. (phew- makes me tired thinking about all that I use to do) Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan costs $36.95 per quart. A quart of Chalk Paint™ by Annie Sloan will cover roughly 150 square feet – compared to any latex sold at Benjamin Moore, Sherwin Williams, Home Deport or Lowes brand paint- which will only cover at most 100 square feet.

Chalk Paint™ also dries super fast and will allow you to begin and finish a project in one day. Depending on the size of your project- you could easily finish it in one afternoon. When you add up the time, money, and paint saved, it really is worth the price! With Chalk Paint™, the average cost invested per piece (now this is dependent on the size of the pieces you are painting) but I would estimate your costs to be between $6 -$12 (that is for both the paint and wax.)

Outdoor use: I am hoping /planning on painting some outdoor wooden chairs this next week and I am wondering what you would suggest I use as a topcoat if any. I am hoping to use a few of my favorite colors to create a beautiful peaceful garden atmosphere instead of the usual stark white or wood stained patio chairs that you usually see. Thanks again, FROM Cheryl in Hamilton, Ontario, Canada

To address your question— Typically- Annie recommends NO WAX if painting “outdoor” furniture such as wrought iron, Adirondack chairs- or any piece that was built to withstand the elements.

However- if you have a protected area- like an outdoor porch where the piece will be protected from the hot sun – you can wax a piece.

Another variable is typically where you are located in regards to temperatures. Being that you are in Canada- I doubt sweltering HOT heat is an issue- but keep in mind- hot sun beating through a window on to a piece of furniture or a piece sitting outside in the sun that has been waxed- the heat can reactivate the wax a bit. Now with that said- keep in mind that Annie has had her Decorative Paint Products for over 20 years and they have been used in Spain where temps can get very warm- and there has been no issues.

The last idea- is sealing the chalk paint with an outdoor polyurethane. You may want to get the spray can kind and carefully cover the whole chair uniformly. : )

I used the lacquer on my floor over Pure White Chalk Paint and it is yellowing a little, why?

If you have gotten some yellowing with the lacquer- you applied it too think. It is very important to roll it on in a thin coat using a sponge roller.

Have another question you don’t see here? Please contact me and I will be happy to answer your question! Just email takuntz@rochester.rr.com and note “Dear Purple Painted Lady” in your subject.