This is a quick little post & video about brush strokes. I get emails often from friends after they have painted a piece and they complain they have blotchy paint or they have a segmented appearance in their paint. I then explain that although the paint is self- leveling, you need to help it. This is especially important if you prefer a traditional smooth look.

For example, if painting the top of a 5 foot wide side bar. I would apply the paint across of it in sections. Once I have paint covering from one side to another, I go back quickly with my brush and complete a final finish stroke where I lay the paint with one solid pass from one side all the way to the other without lifting my brush. This incorporates the “sections” I just painted individually and removes all of those disjointed brush marks. Keep in mind that Chalk Paint® dries 50% faster than latex- so you must do this as you proceed through your painting versus waiting till you are done getting paint all over an entire side. By then, paint may have started to dry and you run the risk of pulling it and giving it texture.

This is best explained by watching me paint- so click HERE to view the 2 minute video.

Here is a link to another post I wrote about blotchy looking paint and wax. Click HERE to read more.

Thanks and if this has been helpful- leave me a comment on my Facebook page HERE.

In a recent BASICS Workshop, as always- everyone creates their own sample boards to take home. While making them and completing the class steps, I encourage each student to have fun and try something new, perhaps from something different from what the person sitting next to them is doing. We are always impressed with how amazing the pieces come out and also – how different they can look by just doing one small thing different.

In class we create a sample board using two different colors, layering them and using a dry brush technique. Then we apply a dark wax glaze and some French Gilding Wax.

Typically we apply the dark wax glaze as the second to last step. We brush it on and then normally, wipe it off so the board is dry. And our last step is to apply the French Gilding Wax, which is that coppery metallic color on the sample board below.

At our last BASICS Workshop, one of our fabulous students named Lauren- decided to approach this project slightly differently. She wanted to leave more of her Dark Wax Glaze on, instead of wiping it off. While the glaze was still moist, she continued to move to the next step of adding the French Gilding Wax. Again, the Mineral Spirits in the Dark Wax Glaze was still moist, so when she applied the French Gilding Wax- it caused it to be thinned out and basically, was like becoming a Gilding Glaze. Lauren also chose to apply her Duck Egg Blue paint minimally and blended it more into the Primer Red Chalk Paint® I think her piece looked fantastic!

Lauren’s look was more translucent and very funky! Oh, by the way, Lauren is the happy one in the background of the photo. (I think you can get the gist that we like to have fun in our workshops!)

Well, what I hope you take away from this post is:

1. Try using your Chalk Paint® decorative paint by Annie Sloan products in different ways! Explore making a wash, mixing paint into some Clear Wax, change the timing of when you traditionally apply or remove product. Don’t be afraid to play!

2. Workshops are a great way to expand your product knowledge. They are fun and you will get to meet some other fantastic and creative people!

3. You will always learn more from a hands-on workshops taught by a stockist compared to a video.

Thanks to everyone who came out for this workshop and I hope to get the opportunity to meet you at one!

I feel that it looks really great, but she was disappointed in that she felt it looked blotchy. So, here are some tips and suggestions that if applied – will benefit everyone when approaching your project to avoid getting a blotchy look.

Let’s focus just on the raised panel sections shown here.   When painting- often we will do short segmented brush strokes, but after you have painted a section – make sure to lay your paint or do a finish brushstroke from one edge all the way to the other.  (meaning from the top blue arrow all the way to the bottom blue arrow) This will create a fluid solid pass of paint and lay the paint in one smooth plane.  Some people may paint in small sections, especially on the sides of tall piece, so this is very important or you run the risk of seeing those broken brush strokes. To watch a video of me painting- demonstrating what I mean by “Laying The Paint” click HERE.

This same tip applies to when waxing.  Apply your wax as I instruct in the paperwork I include in your shipments or as shown on my website’s video HERE.  But then also- remember in the final phase of removing the excess wax -  always start at the top of the panel and wipe to the bottom, as so to blend the wax from the top blue arrow to the bottom.   I hope this make sense.

This tip is especially important when working with darker colored Chalk Paint®. Just like black cars show off dings, dents or scratches more versus a white car- when working with Graphite, Napoleonic Blue or Emperor’s Silk, make sure to wipe off wax and buff in an even smooth and fluid approach- incorporating a section from one edge all the way to the other edge- if wanting more of a clean finish. The Buffing Brush that I sell at my shop and on-line – is very helpful with darker colors.  Click on the photo below if interested in purchasing an Ultimate Buffing Brush or to read more about why they are super helpful in general, but especially when working with darker Chalk Paint® colors.

Besides the above- what also causes a blotchy appearance is when you are applying your first coat of soft wax. It is important to apply clear wax in thin and uniformed coats. When I say thin- I mean – not sparse- but rather a reasonable amount as so you are not wasting the wax since you then, after applying it- wipe the excess off. Something important that happens during your application of wax- is that the wax intensifies the paint as it is absorbed. You will literally see a deepening in the color of the Chalk Paint®. (the darker the color of paint, the easier it is to see) As you apply the wax- make sure the intensity is uniformed and happens to 100% of your painted area. Not just in some spots. You cannot always easily “correct” this after the wax has dried if you do have sections that the paint is lighter. Please apply the wax and as shown in my video- by gently pushing the wax into the paint. (please make sure to watch my video since reading instructions is very different then seeing someone actually do it.)

I received a question via Facebook from a customer who experienced streaking – I thought I would share my responses to her here – in hopes it may help some of you also::br>

All are welcome to come – NO INVITE necessary- but if you RSVP on are Facebook you will be kept on announcements: (and feel free to share this link)=> https://www.facebook.com/events/138381982990230/

If interested in applying to be a featured artist at our Barn Sale- click on the image below to get directions on how to contact us!

Chalk Paint® has a powder or “chalky” feeling to it at first. This “powdery” feeling goes away as the Chalk Paint® cures however. But that is why when you wax your piece of furniture or cabinets, some Chalk Paint® transfers onto your Ultimate Wax Brush or rag.

I always recommend to clients when applying clear wax- to have paper plates and plastic spoons on hand. Take wax out of the tin and place it on a paper plate to pull from with your Ultimate Wax Brush or rag.

I would not want to get any of the Florence Chalk Paint® on this brush back into my tin of clear wax and then have to complete a Pure White Chalk Paint® piece.

If wanting to learn more about applying clear wax- please read the post and watch the quick video I made to help you by clicking HERE.

First, I mixed equal parts of both and the result was a sea green puddy color. (I did not love it)

Then I mixed an additional spoon of Primer Red Chalk Paint® and I loved the outcome. I would describe the custom color as an Eggplant or Aubergine….and since I do love purples- this will be a color I will have to paint a piece in.

Again- the recipe to creating this “Eggplant” custom Chalk Paint® color was 2 parts of Primer Red and 1 part Florence.

Here is another view of the “Eggplant” custom Chalk Paint® color.

I then added 1 spoon of Old White Chalk Paint® to the Aubergine mixture and thought the muted color was gorgeous also!

If interested in purchasing Florence- click HERE.

If interested in purchasing Primer Red- Click HERE.

The Purple Painted Lady offers the lowest flat rate shipping and ship everyday!

And if you are looking for a custom color- feel free to write us and we will do our best to experiment for you and then post the results!

Thanks for following our Facebook and website/blog!!!
Trish

QUESTION:
Hello. I am planning to buy some chalk paint for my very first furniture project. The pieces I am painting are a high gloss laminate finish. I guess that doesn’t really mater… my question is actually on the wax. Is waxing mandatory? Is it like a sealer? The furniture will be barely used as it will be in my spare room, but I want to be sure about how significant the wax is to the process. I am into a more modern look, so there will not be any distressing of the paint just a straight cover in graphite. I don’t want them to come out looking dull, but I also do not want to spend more money if it is not vital. Please advise and happy happy holidays.

-Jamie

The Purple Painted Lady’s RESPONSE:

Hi Jamie,
Thanks for your note. The response to your question is a bit confusing since I would normally respond to that with both a “YES” and a “NO.”

I am going to explain that “Yes and NO” response below- but just like I end this post- I want you to know that as for me personally and in my store…..I always wax the pieces that I paint. .

Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan has a flat matte finish by itself…meaning how it looks when there is no wax on top of it. The Chalk Paint™ does cure over time and becomes very strong without a protective finish. This cure time is about a few weeks. At my shop in upstate New York, someone dropped a sample pot of Old White Chalk Paint™ on the sidewalk outside in July of 2012. We have tried to power wash the Chalk Paint™ off and it is still there!

To read and see a photo about the sidewalk accident that I feel is a great representation about the durability of chalk paint, click HERE.

Now with that said, I feel that the soft wax as a top coat however is also very important.

First, from just an aesthetic perspective- the wax will give your piece a very slight luster. That luster is NOT a lot if applied and NOT buffed, but it does have a slight sheen versus the flat Chalk Paint™ by itself. And, based on your email- I believe you stated that you did not want a flat finish. So, if you want your piece to be shiny or have a lot of sheen, then you need to apply the wax and buff it.

Chalk Paint™ by nature, has a super flat finish straight out of the quart….so basically once the paint dries and cures- the finish will be similar to that of a chalk board. If you drag your fingers across it – you will see a slight trail. Also oils from fingers, damp dusting when cleaning, or anything that could come into contact potentially could leave a mark.

The wax is important to protect the paint – like polyurethane does when using Latex. In regards to water protection, especially in kitchens and bathrooms- having a top coat is important but that does not mean you can place a wet shower towel on your painted piece and leave it there overnight. But in general, for basic protection, you need something made from wax and / or oil….ie……oil and water don’t mix. (and not to be too odd or crude here- but that is why when in your home a new toilet is installed- the toilet is set on the foundation but with a very THICK wax ring placed as a seal between the plumbing and the porcelain toilet base)

I have tested many waxes. I always share with people that since I own my shop- I could have chosen to carry any product available on the market. I will only associate my personal name, my store name and my reputation with what I feel is the very best to offer. Thus- that is why I carry Annie Sloan’s products! And on a side note….I was also the very first Chalk Paint™ stockist in New York state.

Getting back to the testing of other waxes: I have found that the water based waxes just do not work as well at all and they come off when you wipe them with a cloth!

Petroleum wax, also known as paraffin wax, is a by-product of the petrochemical industry…it is a residual from another manufacturing process. Annie Sloan’s Wax upcycles that left over material from other manufacturing processes … in that a petroleum by-product is used in her wax versus of it being disposed. As Annie states, “It is a good and economical base.”

Annie’s wax is made up of various components though, such as all natural bees wax (which comes from bees!) It is added to make it soft.

Then there is also carnauba wax which is from a plant. Any wax will be very water repellent, but that is a primary characteristic of carnauba wax. Carnauba wax can also become as hard as concrete by itself so the strength of it is amazing!

Chalk Paint™ because of its particular porous structure allows the wax to soak in- like quality skin lotion will on your body. This is why Chalk Paint™ and Annie Sloan waxes marry each other perfectly- they were created to do so and no other mixing of products will produce the same results. The Chalk Paint™ cures and then, the wax absorbed cures and you end up with a beautiful and durable piece of transformed furniture.

However, (and here is the part where I explain the “NO” in my original response above)…..there is a technique called the Modern Look where you do not use wax as a top coat.

Basically – after you have applied a few coats of paint …often with the last coat being applied a bit thinned with water, you then polish the paint with some 220 or 400 grit sand paper. When you do this, it is similar to burnishing Venetian plaster. You are polishing the paint – making the surface very smooth, making the surface have a bit of sheen since you are knocking off any surface tension and compacting the paint making it harder. (now keep in mind, if you do this process, if you were to want to apply wax afterward- the wax may not be absorbed as well into the paint since the paint is not as porous.)

You stated that you want to use the color Graphite. Obviously- like a car- dark colors can show imperfections much easier than light colors. So- what I would suggest is that if you want to try this “Modern Technique” approach- that you practice on a smaller separate piece and determine if you like the results first.

One suggestion regarding the cost being an issue, is to not purchase the wax when you buy the paint. You do immediately need to wax your piece if you know there will be minimal touching of it. That way- you can save up a bit and then purchase the wax. Keep in mind though, the wax is sold here on my site at $24.95. No matter who you purchase paint though- a second order or trip to the store equates to additional shipping cost or gas in your car being used. So, just keep that in mind since in the end…your attempt to save on money may end up costing you additional $8.

To read a previous post I wrote that focuses on the durability of wax, click HERE.

Again, coming full circle from where I started my response to you….as for me personally and in my store…..I always wax my pieces that I sell.

If you have a stockist near by, you should check out their workshop offerings and consider taking one. Reading information on-line is helpful, but nothing compares to the hands on class room. Either way, I hope that my response helped you and that when you decide to purchase paint and possibly wax – if you need to make a trek to do so – that you kindly consider purchasing it through me. That is what supports me to be here to answer questions like yours. Not to mention- I offer the lowest flat rate shipping and the very best customer service. (that is just my personal opinion though!)

Happy New Year!!!!!
Trish ~ The Purple Painted Lady

My current project that I am working on…… and I love it. I hope someone out there will too and hopefully purchase it!

This dresser is painted in Graphite and Pure White Chalk Paint™ Decorative Paint by Annie Sloan.

I am very excited about it- and I had to share it. Once I was done with the detailing – I planned on making it look a bit worn by sanding the surface strategically with some 220 and 400 grit sandpaper.

Here is a helpful tip for when you paint a dresser front…once you have the lay out done, feel free to remove the drawer and set it to make the painting easier!

Also, don’t panic if when using Chalk Paint™ and prior to waxing you get a light scuff mark, like what I am pointing at in the photo below. When you apply Annie’s Clear Wax that all disappears. But note, I am not referring to scratches or gouges.

Always have a copy of the image you are painting near by to reference. In the photo below you can see how I like to tape mine using Painter’s Tape to the piece so I can easily reference it at all times. I learned this when I primarily only painted murals. I would tape 4 copies of what I was painting above, below and on both sides of the area I was painting on the wall. This does really help a lot!

For the knobs I am thinking will by a glossy black of some sort. (I think)

Now after painting the detailing on, my next step is to lightly sand the surface to even out the paint. There are pros & cons to sanding or distressing BEFORE applying your first coat of Clear Wax. I typically sand BEFORE and will explain why in this post later today below.

Something I wanted to share now though, is that when you sand prior to waxing over a dark Chalk Paint™ color like Graphite (as I have in my photo below)…you will get this residual white chalky look. Don’t panic!

What I do to remove this “chalky effect” is GENTLY blow and wipe with a DRY towel as much of it off. (don’t use a moist towel since that powder are tiny particles of chalk paint and the water will reactivate it into a “wash.”) Do not be concern with removing it so it is all gone! First, you will not be able to. Secondly, it is not necessary because as soon as I apply the clear wax…all of that disappears. The photo below shows what the front looks like after applying clear wax to the top drawer. Notice, that white chalky residue or scratch look goes away on it!

When painting or waxing – place your piece up on blocks so that it easy to get right to the bottom of the feet without dirtying your floor.

Once done applying the wax (and please reference my video here if you need wax application instructions.) But after I applied the wax and removed the residual wax per my instructions, I gently buffed out the surface. The photo below is after I am done with all of this.

I ended up painting the inside of the drawers with Napoleonic Blue and waxed them. The only thing left is to add some black enamel knobs. I couldn’t wait to get it into the window though, so here it is….ready for sale! I hope you like it. It comes with my girlfriend Jeanne’s Bourbon Slushie recipe! Perfect for the holidays.

I will post a final photo when finish! (and don’t worry…I have something in the works that I will reveal soon to show you exactly how I do this!!!!!) Something that will be available to you via my on-line store.